So when my wood stove got my tarp ceiling too hot then my ceiling clamps were having the metal expand too quickly - and the clamps were exploding off the ceiling tarp!!!! Luckily I didn't get hurt.
Pony style 32000 hand clamps have an innovative box-joint design which prevents twisting and keeps the jaws square and straight. The patented adjustment mechanism allows for easy adjustments not found in other hand clamps. The comfortable soft dual barometer handles fits nicely while in the hands of the user. Non-marring pivoting jaws are ideal for holding delicate work. The pivoting jaws are riveted to the clamp so that they will not fall off.
This must be the ones I got - based on my images below.
And so I had to fix the situation and luckily I discovered these ALL PLASTIC clamps that seem to work perfectly. No issues so far. They have a perfect wide grip for the Willow Logs that are the roof frame - to which I clamp the tarp around as my hut ceiling.
Pretty funny looking for a ceiling but the tarp is not cut into - this way.
So the clamps on the right are the older metal clamps - I make sure they are not directly above the wood stove.
So then above the tarp is the rock wool insulation - slag metal. So I have TWO layers of rock wool insulation for better heat retention but also sound proofing.
These are meant to be "abstract" avant-garde photos. You're not supposed to be able to tell what's going on. haha.
My intention was to use a traditional C-Clamp but then I realized I really don't want some HEAVY iron accidentally falling on me. I thought - well the thick metal won't heat up too fast and the C clamp will hold better than an A-clamp spring pressure.
But the light-weight C-Clamp is much better since no metal and no need to have a strong force. These hold up to 30 pounds in pressure. That should be good enough.
Also they are much wider than an A-clamp or spring clamp.
However, the seams in the plastic on the underside/inside of the grip were raised and unfinished, and the release trigger was so effective/instantaneous that the kick-back knocked my finger into one of those seams and gave me a nasty gash the first time I used it. I personally didn't notice how sharp the seams were until afterwards, and I actually do still like this clamp overall, so this truly isn't intended as a negative review - just a warning to inspect these clamps for any sharp seams and consider either sanding them down before use or possibly wearing work gloves.
Yeah I have not tried "releasing" the clamp yet! Thanks for the warning.
I can see the small plastic gears and I think every time I use it, I am going to break it.
I WANT plastic gears to prevent the heat expansion causing breaking.
The hinges of the "locking" bar thing are loose such that after you clamp it down, the hinge play allows the jaws to open back over 1/8" from the position you clamp them at.
Again - the clamps are still holding. I did have to give them an extra tightening after they "clamped" - so maybe that's what they're referring to. I think it's part of the locking mechanism.
I test plastic clamps in the store when I see clamps that I haven't seen before. Plastic clamps usually fail my test. I clamp on to something tight as I can and then try to pull the clamp off. usually, plastic clamps will fail this test. These didn't move when I pulled them straight out. Most plastic clamps will slide right off. I now own four of these and have found several good uses for them.
yep.
Excellent ratchet workings.
So there appear to be FOUR brands of "racketing" C plastic clamps: Irwin; Pony; Milwaukee; and Bessey.
This is probably the best plastic hand clamp made. Doesn't move or flex, excellent release mechanism, and high quality materials.
Guess I got lucky with the Pony clamp made by Jorgensen.
That's the ONLY vid I can find on that particular clamp. funny.
No comments:
Post a Comment