Sunday, April 28, 2024

Is home-made Waxoyl worth it? a 2.5 litre pressure can of Waxoyl, a high-pressure sprayer, and extension probe

 Is home-made Waxoyl worth it?

Rust Inhibit Kit Waxoyl 

 https://www.amazon.com/Hammerite-6141711-Waxoyl-Pressure-Sprayer/dp/B019CXRV16

 I filled the pump container with the warmed waxoyl, pumped to set the pressure and off I went, well for 30 seconds I did. The waxoyl had now solidified in the rubber extension tube and wouldn’t budge. So that was the end of that. The product had also started to solidify in the pump too so would not come out. I managed to heat the pump a bit to get some of it out but most was wasted. I guess I am going to have to use a brush to apply this as I am sending this useless pump for a refund.. avoid like the plague folks.

 Found this product more user friendly than the old pressurized tin can version of several years ago.

 a link to Canadian Military study of various rust prevention methods and basically oil spray type rust proofing came out on top once they took into account how the equipment is used, the ability of the rust proofing to creep and how long can it stay on the covered surfaces.

 There is a NATO formula for use in military equipment, vehicles, ships, etc:

 90% white petrolatum and 10% beeswax. Heat to 225-250 F and spray hot into cavities and places where rust protection is needed. I suspect this is where Mike Sander in Germany got the idea for his formula. The large proportion of grease, with some wax for stabilization, prevents the substance from drying out. I had some of the old hot wax stuff eventually dry completely out and fall off a Jaguar. I am going to try this and see how it works.

 White petrolatum USP is a purified mixture of semi-solid hydrocarbons from petrolatum and is decolorized. It may contain a stabilizer. Synonyms: white soft paraffin, white petroleum jelly, Vaseline, White Ointment USP.

 seems this has a cup or so of 30 weight motor oil in it as well.

 Waxoil on the car's underside, i reckon that its got a high content of hydrocarbons - from the "light" ones (hexane, heptane, etc - these will evaporate at nomal temperatures), plus a good selection of the heavyier ones - to form a soft waxy film (rather like pertoleum jelly [White soft paraffin]). Ther's probably lots more in there - as Willie notes the tin doesn't have ingredients listed. BUT it doesn't have "danger carcinogen" so there's probably no benzene or toluene...

I think that the beeswax/candle mixture won't have the range of waxes to stay soft and sticky over the normal motoring temperatures - try for a commercial product first.

Home-Made

 Take a pound or so of paraffin wax and grind
it up with a cheese grater. Soak it in a half gallon of mineral spirits until all of the wax is dissolved. This might require allowing it to sit in a closed container for a couple of weeks (I just used a 5 gal. bucket with lid). Stirring will cause most of the wax to dissolve, but soaking should take care of the rest. Generally try to dissolve as much wax as the mineral spirits will hold.

After that, dump in a couple of pints of mineral oil ( less of a smell )

 f the mixture is thick, thin it further with more mineral spirits until it is of a sprayable consistency.

Buy a cheap pump pesticide sprayer to apply it. 

I have however tried straight paraffin dissolved in spirits. The brew with the addition of oil creeps out more so than a mix without oil.

 Harvey™ Bol-Wax® No. 1 Standard Wax Ring is actually Petrolatum and NOT Paraffin wax!!

Petrolatum is solidified petroleum jelly - use mineral oil. No smell.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/easy-diy-rusproofing.140790/ 

 I bought a gallon of cosmoline, cut it with naphtha and sprayed the underside of my vehicles.

 OK an overview of the Types of Underbody Rust Prevention Treatments

1) Paraffin Waxes I used Cosmoline as RP342 but there are claims this Paraffin Wax spray will chip off and then trap water. The countervailing claim is that the wax repels water and softens in the summer - so does not chip off (unless in very cold winter). I haven't noticed water being trapped nor it chipping off but I have not really scrutinized the effects. Also I did two treatments - and the last one was a couple years ago. These treatments do need to be repeated and I did not get all the parts of the car - the rocker panels and the doors - I did not get very well at all. I focused on the frame rails, and underbody. 

In the hot summer months an underbody car power wash will remove the wax coating!

So that paraffin wax is the first kind of underbody treatment. It is also infamously used as Waxoyl - a British brand as per above - that can also be home-made (something I have not tried but am considering it). The paraffin wax dries fast and has a candlewax or crayon smell that is pleasant. The black looks awesome. But it does not "creep" - and when spreading INSDE the frame rails - the chassis (box) frame - you want creep.... NHOU also sells B.o.s.s. Wax - amber color (paraffin wax). Rustcheck is another one. Cor-Ban 22 is another one. Corrosion X is another one. No-Drip by Dominion is also paraffin wax. Undercoating In A Can, Black Wax Coating  and

The wax coating makes floor jacks slip off the frame too....The wax coating was peeling in chunks.

2) Lanolin or Woolwax products This infamously includes Fluid Film the  most widely available undercoating product sold. Fluid Film is something I have not used but it is now available in black - so I would like to try this out. It is best known for "creep" on metal but it also washes off fairly easily. So it's best to be used inside - which is what I need - inside the chassis (box) frame rails... It does smell like sheep backside apparently but the smell goes away hopefully. PB Surface Shield is also lanolin based and does not smell as bad - probably not as much lanolin - but it's not in black color.... Woolwax does not creep as well - so it's a thicker lanolin. Those are the three main lanolin undercoating products but there are more out there. The big problem is these make the underbody a sticky gooey mess and a mechanic will complain or may even refuse service. One professional painter insisted that the undercoating as lanolin would destroy their painting process. The lanolin also will soften the wax and work through the wax coatings. 

 The fluid film company says not for use on GM frames. But people don’t know that.

Fluid Film SDS : Refined petroleum oil, hydrotreated heavy paraffinic 50-90%

So Fluid Film actually might be mainly paraffin wax also! 

3) Mineral Oil products  New Hampshire Oil UnderCoating or NHOU is a food-grade mineral oil product. Another mineral oil product that is used in Canada is Krown - there is a franchise. A third mineral oil that is used for undercoating is Penetrol. Lastly you can just buy mineral oil as a gallon and use a garden hand pump sprayer - this is the cheapest and easiest undercoating method. Unfortunately Krown scored low on tests - why? Mineral Oil creeps really well and that's crucial but it also washes off easily - and also drips a lot. So same problem as above - a gooey sticky mess. It sounds similar to Noxudol out of Sweden. (also another mineral oil-paraffin wax mix with calcium sulfonate mixed in).  CRC Corrosion Inhibitor is similarly mainly mineral oil with just a small amount of paraffin and petroleum (2% of those). Gooey, tacky brown mess that lasts a few months, a strong odor that lasts a week.  Corrosion Free is made from food grade mineral oils. Rust-Oleum® Stops Rust® Clear Rust Inhibitor is also mainly mineral oil with some paraffin wax!!

4) Petroleum Jelly-Paraffin Wax mixesMike Sander's Grease got the highest rating for undercoating. Another very high score in undercoating is Texaco or Chevron Rust Proof Compound L.  As I quoted above their secret is 90% petroleum jelly! 10% paraffin wax

 There is a NATO formula for use in military equipment, vehicles, ships, etc:

 90% white petrolatum and 10% beeswax. Heat to 225-250 F and spray hot into cavities and places where rust protection is needed. I suspect this is where Mike Sander in Germany got the idea for his formula.

So with this formula you get both CREEP and you get a harder wax that does not wash off easily.  Basically mineral oil and petroleum jelly and paraffin wax are all very closely related and they exist on a continuum of refined petroleum products. They don't smell as bad as lanolin or wool oil yet they are still synthetically derived. The "wax" put on GM frames - that infamously wears off fast - paraffin wax-petroleum jelly (but more paraffin wax). This is called Nox-Rust out of Illinois.  The wax coating has "evaporated" - the wax is peeling or falling off...

5) The fifth product for undercoating is to just use oil or ATF or some asphalt mixed in - or some Rubberized spray - these do leave toxic messes and the hard rubber or asphalt will trap water as it "peels" off. Of course paint is a variation on this also - acrylic or epoxy paints - with some claiming to be special Chassis paints. I have tried using Chassis Saver paint. In some places it bonded well - in other places it peeled off.

Lloyds Kryptonite Metal Treatment High Temp Satin Black is a 3% phosphoric acid - 1% Zinc - primer used by GM to re-prep frames that had not been prepped properly before waxing.

https://madesafe.org/blogs/viewpoint/chemical-profile-mineral-oil-petroleum-jelly

 Half quart of any oil, trans fluid, tube of grease and a wax gasket or 2. Add what u like. It only helps. Dont like smell of oils and trans fluid use mineral oil.

MY OWN RECIPE

Canola Oil

Harvey Wax Bowl Ring = 3 of them ($2 dollars) is petrolatum wax
heat in the rice cooker....to dissolve and mix into the mineral oil.
add the
Victor™ Powdered Graphite - 6.5 g  1 in stock $1.30
Spray in garden sprayer.

vid: HEAT is enough - no mineral spirits needed!!