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| George Gmelch Collection wattle tent travellers |
Except for the Syrian tent, scant use is made of wattle walls among the major desert tribes.1 .... It would have been a simple matter to adapt the wattle frame house to that of a tent.... surround their tent awnings with wattle walls which appear to be an ancient element in the tent groups of Western Iran....
Tensile Architecture
Philip Drew
Frame of a Tuareg Tent,
Bagzane Plateau - Aïr Mountains - Niger
The Turks brought their Central Asian yurt-type tents to the central regions of Anatolia where they first settled because of the geographical resemblance to their native countries
This tent is interesting because it is not only an armature form, but it also has post and beam elements.https://spatialexperiments.wordpress.com/2016/02/03/nomadic-architecture-mobility-gender-ritual/
Frame of a Tuareg Tent,
Bagzane Plateau - Aïr Mountains - Niger
The Turks brought their Central Asian yurt-type tents to the central regions of Anatolia where they first settled because of the geographical resemblance to their native countries
part one vid
Ah so they "slide" the tent OVER the frame. Sneaky!
constructed of fabric or pliable material
Tent. A structure, enclosure or shelter, with or without sidewalls or drops, constructed of fabric or pliable material supported by any manner except by air or the contents that it protects.
Wow! Would hay be considered "pliable material" - YES indeed! So I officially DO have a tent-cabin! So cool! that means I can live there 7 months a year!!
“wattle” was a wicker fence or wall made of a pliable wood like willow
Wattle was a woven wall of pliable branches
Depending on which part of the world these people were living in, this might include structures such as log cabins, sod houses, tents, or yurts....Malleable branches are woven together (that’s the wattle)
I was thinking of doing that! I was gonna do it in the summer since my tent has screen doors then. So I would have to cut out the bottom of the tent though.. hmm.
Probably don't need to do that.
So then he says, "The structure is a tent"
Precisely! That is the zoning code - no permit needed if it is a tent.
An assembly occupancy is generally defined as "an occupancy (1) used for a gathering of 50 or more persons
How is this a TENT??? It has a solid roof, door and wall with a tent draped over everything..🤔someone comments! Precisely.
3rd vid on the "house-tent"
our county doesn’t have any regulations on small canvas structures so it made it easy!Precisely!! That is precisely what I was looking for. They call it a tent so it does not need to be up to code nor permit.
There is a youtuber with a tent in MN and he has had his framed canvas tent up for over 10 years and uses it in all seasons. Maybe that channel has some ideasHow it all started - Minnesota Tent-cabin vid
I didnt really build "around" the tent. I did build walls inside so I could insulate because there is no way to insulate a tent. At 30 below zero after the tent warms up it will be a balmy 80 in there easily. I did put the roof over the tent because I knew that with my original plan of having the tent only 5 years and then doing the cabin that there is NO way a tent will withstand the weather that long and not rot. Not a canvas tent no matter what you spray on it. All it really has is a roof and then the tarp goes down along the sides to keep the weather off the canvas. Where water DOES hit the canvas by the stove pipe its partially rotted and I spray the crap out of that area with a canvas waterproofer. The roof over the top leaves a 20 inch air space (roughly) between the tent and the tarp which has been critical in allowing the tent to "breath" The ceiling insulation stops short of the peak by about 10 inches and that was to allow it to breath as well or else you have water forming on the inside as condensation. I have had many canvas wall tents we used to use deer hunting around the state and it will drip. This one never has. I did put plywood on the inside of the walls of the tent after the insulation for a few reasons. One, it holds the insulation in, it also keeps the tent from being blown over in severe storms. We have had many storms with 70 mph winds and she is standing firm. The other reason is because there are lots of bears up there and although I have never had bear trouble if I did it would be hard for a bear to get through 3/4 inch plywood before my gun was loaded. If I took the tarp off the tent there would not be much framing.
I will be building a cabin in the tents place in a couple years. That was always the plan but the economy crashed and then I went through a divorce and it just was NOT happening at that time. That whole subfloor will be removed and everything. I have a very heavy antique wood cook stove/oven that will be going in the new cabin kitchen I bought a couple years ago and it weighs at least 500 pounds so I will be adding more footings etc. Even my "all nighter" wood stove.......https://youtu.be/Yp-V4MYsGL0.... which will be the new cabin woodstove is VERY heavy and will need its own footings under the floor. I may even put in a real fireplace but I am not sure on that. The new cabin will be 8 feet wider than the tent and the same depth as the tent plus the addition is now. It will be easier for me to start from scratch. Thanks Bill. Joe
Another Northern Minnesota "tent cabin"!! Sweet.
I registered just to reply to your thread and I also subscribed to your channel. I've been lurking on Permies for a year or so. I just finished a similar design using clay-slip straw for 6 to 8 inch walls between a double wattle willow branch framing (if that is even the correct word!). I found an archaeology article from a site uncovered recently from 3000 BCE. Turns out the wattle/daub designs had been recreated wrong - it's supposed to be a double wall. I'm just saying that using pallets should save you tons of time since it was a very slow laborious process to use a lopper to cut the willow branches.
On the plus side I just discovered that since willow and hay are "pliable" and I use tarps from my rooF (plus rock wool) - so technically I built a tent-hut or tent-cabin. By code I can live in a tent structure for 7 months out of the year (without needing any permit regulation) as long as it's smaller than 150 square feet. I made sure to build it 120 square feet as that is the maximum size for structure not needing any permit. So there is even no floor. I used willow trees for posts via an auger digger going down about 3 feet, for the wall posts.
I live in the north where it is cold. I put in a small wood stove that is built locally and then I got a 4 gallon pot to heat up water and I surrounded the stove with bricks. So that way I can do a quick small fire like a masonry stove. My duct pipe is only 30 degrees ofF the collar (with a 5 to 6 inch reducer). So by the time the duct pipe goes into my cob wall (of perlite and cob) - it is cool enough to touch. Then I insulated the chimney outside with rockwool around a 6 inch diameter and then an 8 inch duct pipe to close it in.
So I used a lime - hydrated lime plus S-mortar (which is 6 parts sand to 1 part portland cement and 1 part lime) as my waterproofing on my exterior walls. I have three tarps as silicon-polyester or sil-poly that are 12 by 16. So the third one I switched the horizontal around so that I get a good foot plus eaves for water run off away from the structure.
Have fun with your build - I just made a lime-cob floor. I got free horse manure that I hauled up to make the cob mixed with my local clay.
So this was my first gable roof structure build - and I used NO measurements (except for the initial 10 x 12 rectilinear floor plan). So I also used FREE craig's list for scrap wood to "frame" a door - also wood from Habitat for Humanity ReStore. I got some free couch cushions to fill in some "corners" of the walls - between the wattle. I got the bricks also for free - so about 125 bricks for thermal mass. I will probably add more as I can access some free concrete outdoor landscaping bricks.
So yeah my roof is R-30 (two layers of rock wool that are crossed against any thermal bridging) plus local willow trees for the rafters and wall posts and ridge post (supported by an A-frame on the ends). So I put in a support post that is free standing and I can remove when I use the place. But we get a lot of snow - so it will be interesting to see if it survives. haha.
I have space for a composting toilet and a cot and a sheep stock tank as a bathtub plus a chair - and the wood stove. So it covers all the essential "facilities" for IRS code for a house. haha. Of course technically I would be homeless if I lived there as I would also need to camp in nearby national or state forests for free for two weeks at a time - to stretch out that 7 month limit for camping on my land into an entire year.
So that is how it panned out for me. Good luck with your build. I used a clay slip to cover the interior wattle walls - just horse manure and clay-water (sludge) and I just threw it onto the walls to get into the cracks between the willow branches.
I actually used CLIPS for the bottom tarp as the roof - so I have no holes in the tarp - and then the insulation goes on top of that first tarp and then cross rafters (what's the term?) - and then insulation going horizontal - and then a 2nd tarp and then a THIRD tarp with the wider eaves - more taut - to stop any water from collecting.
I wanted the structure to breathe and I also wanted direct contact with the EArth for the "yin qi" Earthing energy for meditation. It's a meditation hermit tent-hut.
I have photos at http://elixirfield.blogspot.com thanks
Since I didn't save my password - this is my first and final post here on the forum.
Fun fact: A hermit is technically someone who chooses isolation for religious/spiritual reasons.
Asceticism extended to one's social interactions.
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