So because of my recent official farm foray - I was inspired - also the neotropical songbirds were all GONE - migrated back - and the mosquitoes were hardly there - so I started building my 2nd allowed 120 square feet (for rural vacant zoning status - no permit needed).
I call this the Willow Palace.
So I had to get out the pipe wrenches - and they were starting to rust. Luckily I have my vinegar spray so I cleaned off the rust a bit. But first I unscrewed the section of pipe connected to the auger digger - and then attached the section of handle. So now I have a handle directly connected to the auger for digging foundation holes.
My farm friend answered my question - how deep were his footers? He said, 3 feet but up near the coldest part of minnesota they might be deeper - otherwise three feet gets below the frost line. So I went down about three feet and I noticed the clay started to have bigger rocks in it. So I figure maybe that's cuz the frost doesn't get down there.
So here are the willow trees at my posts and framing for my Willow Palace. I used old tent stakes for surveying stakes - for the "inside" walls and outside wall line. My plan is to have 1 feet 6 inch thick walls - that are wattle and daub (clay - horse manure - willow branches). I just need the lopper back up - to cut the tons of willow shrub branches I have. That will be my framing walls.
So that cot is in the wrong place. I moved it to finish the last post hole - willow tree. I cut my best willow trees. Even though I have probably 2000 trees - most are on the shrub size and I left the trees that had the flycatcher nests. Well two of the willow trees were from one big old willow that recently crashed down (even the leaves were still green on the tree!).
So willow grows fast - and there's still a ton of willows - even two big willow trees that were TOO BIG for me to cut for this project. So I figure the songbirds should still be able to find nest trees.
The idea then is to use the cot as a sample size to build the Chinese Kang Bed-stove. So the inside perimeter is 9 feet long by 7 feet wide. At first I was going to have the Bed-stove be horizontal as 7 feet wide. But then I wondered where the stove would go to connect to the bed? Not OUTSIDE of the exterior wall!
Anyway I figured out a tentative plan....
So it will be kind of like this - I'll use a couple posts inside to holD up the roof beam. But it will be smaller with no windows - and I'll have more insulation clay - 18 inches - and then use it as an insulated winter bathroom and washroom - put a stock tank in there for bathing and maybe a bucket shower (put a shower faucet into a bucket, as we washed in Alaska). So then you just fill the bucket with warm water and stand in the stock tank. Then I could make a drain to the outside of the cabin-shed. https://exarc.net/issue-2016-3/ea/energy-saving-house-3400-years-ago
Experiments have shown that even a 10 cm wall of wattle and daub can barely carry its own weight and therefore would not be able to carry a roof: “When houses in Százhalombatta were reconstructed, the basic problem was that the thin walls could hardly bear their own weight and could not bear the weight of the roof” (Porozlai 1999).And more fire resistant!
The fragments with smoothed clay on the one side and wood grain on the backside show that the walls as well as the beams were obviously completely covered with clay. The effect is that the building is more fire resistant.
The main advantage of the wall with two wattles is the improved insulation obtained by the stuffing of dry grass in the interior.
So I better bring the Scythe also - so I can harvest hay/straw....
OK Loppers and Scythe now in the car. Just need to make sure I have that sharpening stone for the scythe.
The experiment shows that the walls did not hold the heat well. They consisted of only one layer of parallel branches of 4-5 cm width, not woven. On both sides they were covered with a thin layer of clay (See Figure 28). It took a long time until the fire warmed up the interior of the hut. From about 9 p.m. the inside temperature started to sink, caused by the colder night temperatures outside. After 10 p.m. when the fire was extinguished the temperature sank rapidly (Kaus, Schöbel, Walter 1998/99).Right - so I'm going to use MORE clay and also build a Kang bed-stove of clay - and hydrated lime - to hold even more heat.
Using a grass stuffing of 10 cm between the wattles the thermal insulation is surprisingly good. The U-factor/value is between 0.5 to 1.0 W (m²K) according to how densely the grass was stuffed in and how coarse or fine the grass was. “Very humbly we should acknowledge that comparable high insulation values were not reached again until the heat-protection-regulation of 1995. In the thousands of years in between the insulation grew four to six times worse with timber framed houses, three times worse with solid brick walls. Progress sometimes leads us back to proven methods from the past”, says Werner Eicke Hennig from the Hessian Energy Saving Action (Eicke Henning 2009).Also since this will be a very tiny shed-house then it will heat up faster.
thanks - I forgot to explain - so with the 9 feet - the cot (Kang bed stove) will be less than 7 feet - then an interior wall to block the smoke from the stove. Then the last 2 feet I have the actual stove (pyrolysis rocket stove - the Silverfire Survivor stove). So THEN the exterior wall. So I squeeze a second wall in - for extra insulation and to block off the stove smoke - which can then go out the exterior wall door. That's how the Chinese do it. But I'm just downsizing it to their Bronze Age level. I'll repost that photo.
Unboxing the great Concrete Rubble Cob wall aggregate Free score for slip form Kang Bed-stove primitive Wattle and Daub (cob) hut building May blogpost
Dragon's Breath: Kang bed-stove heater, and TLUD stoves as qigong alchemy meditation: Part 5
So here is the "Bronze Age" Kang Bedstove - so I will have that same "turn" only the bed will go lengthwise.... and I need to put my Silverfire Survivor stove "inside" a kind of "box" designed like above....
https://elixirfield.blogspot.com/2019/03/solving-kang-bed-stove-heater-design.html
So there will be a separation wall and then "bed" will continue on.... but it will be a mini-version like the ancient ones in the black/white photo as above.
So this stove gets VERY VERY HOT with just using sticks - it has pyrolysis but also a rocket stove. So my plan is to take advantage of this stove since it is insulated. So I need to "embed" it into a larger lime-clay stove that will then channel the smoke-heat from this stove - to the LEFT - into the Kang bed-stove.
I was WONDERING where the secondary air intake is on the Survivor stove - ONLY in this vid - from 2013 - does TODD show the secondary air intake...
So maybe the exhaust will have to be under the pot? Like the image above? I need to experiment. I tried experimenting before but I had my exhaust pipe going DOWN against draft. Obviously that failed - but it was pretty funny.
OK I just figured it out - see that Wok photo - now imagine the Survive stove pot lid as the same as that Wok lid! So I just build a lime-clay "firebox" that completely embeds the whole Survivor rocketstove PLUS firedragon pot (and lid). So the lid will "close" off the smoke - just as with the Wok design above. Then the "side" of the fire box will go through the wall - into the Kang bed - thereby channeling all the heat-smoke off into the kang bedstove. This design will still provide enough air around the stove. So let's say I take the "wok" out - or the pot out. - not a problem since the pot COVERS the stove - so any smoke should get pulled off to the side even if the pot-"box" is not snug.... I may just have to embed the pot - the handles will have to be below the fire box rim....
So here we have PROOF that the Silverfire Survivor stove will heat up a secondary oven - no need for the specialized pot on top
This means I should be able to just design a fire box - slide in the Silverfire Survivor stove - and heat up a wok - just as above - while the smoke and heat should then "funnel" off into the chimney effect of the Kang bed-stove off to the side and above the Silverfire survivor stove.
OK so as long as the Wok "hole" is BIGGER than the Survivor rocket stove - then I can insert the stove from the top hole - and remove the stove to clean it. Then put the wok back on top - and have the heat go out the side - from between the wok and the stove. NO "dragon pot" needed....
SWEET.
I used to have the wok that sells now for $42. I must have bought it in the city and who knows what I did with it - when I moved. I may have had it a long time ago. Not sure - It probably got donated at some point.
OH I just remembered - SILVERFIRE sells a Wok that is made for the Survivor stove!!
So they want $50 for the Wok - but it's for the stove... I should probably just order this then.
So I'll put the "fire box" around the Survivor stove and then Wok will "rest" into the rim of the fire box - with space in between - so then I can light the stove with the wok on top and the smoke and heat will go off to the side - via the chimney effect - into the Kang bed-stove...
I'll wait a while till I get the fire box built..., and the Kang bed-stove. Or at least some more progress done - maybe order it in a couple weeks....
Only prob is there's no lid.... how wide is it?
On the plus side - there's no HANDLE below the rim - whereas most woks have an annoying handle...
So I should be able to just use a pot lid -
And obviously it's WIDER than the actual Survivor stove.... not by much - as I need to be below the width of the top rim edge..
So I am concerned those woks will not be wide enough - so I'll get an actual Chinese wok! pdf link 19 inches should be wide enough - but not TOO wide - I only have 24 inches to work with...
so it's $18 for a 19 inch plus $20 shipping or something...
https://www.webstaurantstore.com/2695/asian-woks-wok-covers-and-wok-rings.html
17 inch cover is designed for 20 to 24 inch wok...
https://www.webstaurantstore.com/15-3-8-stainless-steel-wok-cover/407WOKCVR16.html
I would rather not have aluminum - so this cover will be better.
Ok so the Wok rides high up - compared to the diameter...
Then loses more diameter for the "bevel" to hold the wok in the fire box... and cover the smoke...
So a 19 inch should give me plenty of wiggle room - to be able to also get the stove back out of that hole.
So the cement or clay-lime mortar is molded around the wok - while it is still wet. vid
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