UPDATE!
OK Joe - I did it!! The hose was NOT baked on or brittle!! I used the Pittsburgh hose plier to take off the bottom end going into the crankcase. I forgot to turn the car off so immediately air shot OUT of the "port" - that's good because it means it was NOT clogged!! haha. Since i had the hose off then I poured some B12 in there - more than a capful - probably a couple cap fulls. Then I revved the engine a bit in idle to try burn it off - so the engine wouldn't hydrolock. Then I turned off the engine - put the hose back on and drove around for about 10 minutes. I had a "Service Engine Light" but since i just bought the Innova 3100 - then I cleared out the "idling at high speed" P code. Oh yeah - the hose stayed on - I reused the Old HOse!! Since it was in good condition. So what do you say to that report? You still think my PVC Hose port needs more cleaning? hahaha. You let me know. Is your goal to clean out the crankcase side of it more so than the "six ports" your referred to in the Intake Manifold? I realize those six ports are gonna be dirty. I'm just gonna use MMO from now on - I'll just had a quart of MMO added to my engine oil when I get an oil change and run it for the whole OTC. What do you think of that idea? Too long for MMO to be in the engine? I don't think it's a problem. Let me know if you think that's a problem in your view. haha. thanks again for the help - that was a fun adventure. P. s. I put the Boroscope down the hole and I didn't see anything - and so then I put my bicycle pump against the hole but I couldn't generate much PSI. I don't have any air pressure hose or forced air dealy. So like I said - air shot OUT of the port with the engine on - so it's not clogged up.
OK - that "clamp" doesn't do jack on that PVC Hose! I got the new hose and I tested out that clamp - it's not even a Spring Clamp. It's attached to the hose just to be able to "grab" onto the hose. So Joe was berating me for not just getting on it. So I used the Hose Pliers to remove the crankcase end of the hose. Then I had to stick the hose back on so I could pour the B12 Berryman down into the port. I had the engine running when I pulled the hose off and air shot UP and out - so that port and hose is definitely not clogged at all. haha. After I poured in some B12 - probably a couple cap fulls - then I started the engine back up and revved the idle for awhile to burn off the B12 so I wouldn't get hydrolock hopefully. Then I put the hose back on and I drove around for 10 minutes or so - and the Service Engine was on. I got a P code for "high rpm on idle." So I cleared that Service Engine light as I just got the INnova 3100 scanner so I can clear codes. haha. Thanks for the feedback - luckily the PVC hose was NOT brittle nor "baked on" and I reused the old hose. I'm gonna stick with MMO now. I tried looking in the port with the Boroscope and I saw no blockage. Then I tried pumping the "forced air" in but I only have a bicycle pump - so no PSI really. haha. It's still a very awkward spot to attach the hose - I couldn't get a funnel into that port at all. So I had to flip the hose around and reattach it. ... so I could pour the B12 into the port.
YOUR job is to now get it working - at least a little bit - as every treatment of B-12 will improve it until all 6 ports are pulling a vacuum in the crankcase
Fresh air from the throttle body is supplied to the crankcase, mixed with blow-by gases and then passes through the crankcase ventilation pipe into the intake manifold....From there, the hose takes a slight inward turn toward the side of the engine block and if you trace the hose with your fingers you will find the other end - clamped onto the mysterious and as-rumoried, "non-existing" PC valve.
The little "S-shaped" hose is supposed to be inhaling from the clean air side of the intake - inside that sound killing chamber. The small hole in it is supposed to restrict (slightly) the intake of air from the clean air side in order to promote sweeping the vapors out of the engine and they are then taken to the intake tube at the end
When your PCV Port is clogged, instead of there being a vacuum at that clean air line it turns into an oil spitting machine. When the port stops up, it also makes the plastic valve cover leak all over the place! When you remove the coil packs and check your spark plugs, if you see oil in the spark plug area, before you panic and replace the valve cover orings (wich is a PITA), first remove the oil and clean the port. Many times the silicone orings will stop leaking (or will leak no where near as badly) after cleaning the port, (and you will save time and money as well). IF you change the orings and the port is stopped up (and you don't clean it), the new orings will leak within a very short time!
To clean my PCV port, I bought a two foot piece of 1/2" heater hose and a can of "pour in the fuel tank" Berryman b12 injector cleaner (berryman part number 0116). After driving my TB to get it hot, I took off the PCV hose on the driver's side and attached one end of the 2" new hose to the fitting on the engine block. Then I jammed a small funnel in the other end of the hose and SLOWLY pourede the B12 into that hose WITH THE ENGINE NOT RUNNING. The heat of the warm engine combined with the characteristics of the B12 caused the B12 to boil and "off-gas" as it boiled out the port in the engine. It took me nearly 25 minutes to pour the whole can through the PCV fixed valve, but it fully opened up the port in my TB!
there is no actual 'valve' here --- there are just ports that are metered by the head gasket design further inside the gasket-to-deck/head zone...Filling the steel nipple on the underside of the L-shaped hose will have good results if you let it sit for an appropriate length of time. I however have no idea of what an appropriate length of time would be for YOUR vehicle. Then blow into the lower pipe with a lot of air pressure (100lbs+) to clean out the gunk that's in there. You may have to repeat this a few times if the neglect has been for a long time and many miles.
I put a Philip screwdriver down inside the port and pushed something out of the way my envoy started running much better
(bicycle pump will have enough pressure!)
In the center of this screen shot shows where the "dirty hose" connections through the intake manifold on the 4.2L Inline 6 engine.
The hose that is not there in the photo - it connects down to that "metal nipple" which gets CLOGGED!!
If that is clogged then the negative pressure is destroyed and the engines has "blowby overpressue" that destroys the whole engine.
So he has the hose here and so that clamp is on the BOTTOM!! That is a later model. He says the hose is brittle - and he had to break it. So not sure I can get that thing off from the top where I have a clamp. As he says the lower clamp is "hidden by the engine."
He said he "lost a lot of time on that stupid hose."
This guy says the SAME thing - the PVC hose is "really stiff and everyone he tries to take off breaks" -dang!!
As far as introducing B-12 into the clean side air, I do not know if that would do any good. It isn't a good idea to spray anything into that nipple under the "S hose" --- as it drips directly onto the camshaft and you don't want to clean the lubricating oil off of THAT!
Well that's what I did!
this hose is NEVER under pressure but it MAY have a very small amount of
vacuum as allowed by the metered port cast into the valve cover.
If this hose leaks any oil, it usually means there is pressure inside the crankcase zone.
The l-shaped hose on the driver's side of the engine under the ECM is the CV side of the PCV system.
Since inspiration for the PCV system is rather limited by design, you need it to work at 100% capacity.
Filling the steel nipple on the underside of the L-shaped hose will have good results if you let it sit for an appropriate length of time. I however have no idea of what an appropriate length of time would be for YOUR vehicle.
Then blow into the lower pipe with a lot of air pressure (100lbs+) to clean out the gunk that's in there. You may have to repeat this a few times if the neglect has been for a long time and many miles.
You should NEVER have any positive pressure in the engine crankcase, the valve cover(s) and the timing cover.
Under NO times or circumstances may the rear seal leak.
Wow so that's where the B12 Berryman Acetone went back into the crankcase!! Fascinating.
it sweeps the crankcase and that contamination is then sucked into the intake runners to go through combustion and out the tailpipe. Easy-peasy.
So those are the "intake runners"? Or the intake runners are only in the intake manifold?
An intake manifold consists of the plenum and runners
OK so it's only in the intake manifold.
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