So I got a "Garage in a box" to convert to a permanent structure. Why? As I mentioned before - I discovered a loophole in the county building permits whereby a garage triggers a "street address" without the need for a dwelling (and therefore without the need for a subsurface sewage permit). I may not WANT to have a street address though as I prefer the privacy for my meditation hermitage. But if I use a car then I need a street address....
Also without a street address then I can only camp on an "occasional" basis that is not "regular" due to the tax status of "rural vacant" whereas a street address would change the tax status to unimproved residential. With a residential tax status then I can camp for six months a year legally as long-term seasonal camping.
Legally I could still do long term six month camping but the tax status might get changed to "seasonal recreational" that then REQUIRES another residential street address somewhere else. So best to trigger the residential tax status if wanting to do any long term seasonal camping.
So I am currently loading up river rock for my access road but the actual foundation would be "pier" foundation. I would use these
Sonotube TubeBase 28" Square Concrete Footing
as per this northern Minnesota building forum.
I am going with 4ft deep pier foundations (sonotubes) as I have a clay subsoil. I will likely bell out the bottom of the piers to battle the upwards frost action.
So that would be for the four corners of the "Garage in a Box" that I would then secure to the concrete footing using this:
Trubolt Red HeadWedge Anchor3/8 inch x 3 inchesdrill into concrete. Hammer in till splayed.Then tighten nut.
OK now for the actual structure - the framing is metal steel tubing. I would then create another clay slip hay insulated "wattle" wall only I would use free pallets - as per this building video from Portugal.
The clay slip straw would be harvested from my land - as I did with my Hermit Hut for the Shiitake inoculation work space.
So the garage metal tubing wall is not vertical - which means it would have to support the weight of the wall a bit - but the walls can be a bit free standing as it's the steel tube that is the structural framing for the roof.
Also I can add some more wooden posts to the wall framing. Then add rafters.
Just as with my hut - then I would use lime for the outside to waterproof it.
So then the roof will be a "green roof" using more local grass.
I like these Iceland houses with green roofs and sod earth walls - vid
Of course we probably won't get enough rain - due to abrupt global warming.
So I'll figure out a different roof - maybe shingles. Maybe to use "roofing felt."
201 Fibered Black Asphalt Roof Coating - 4.75 Gallon
I would use this stuff.
Henry 201 fibered black roof coating is a premium cold-applied, brush or
spray-grade asphalt coating in a solvent system. It is a penetrating
type protective coating formulated to provide a tough, durable,
weather-resistant film to protect existing roofs in good condition. The
solvent system allows working at lower temperatures than with asphalt
emulsions and the coating won't wash off if unexpected drizzle occurs
before curing.
https://www.buildsite.com/pdf/henry/HE201-Fibered-Black-Roof-Coating-Estimating-Notes-424440.pdf
with this SBS roofing 100 sq. feet. - so kind of pricey. = $130
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