Patent Law explains the need for the OEM inner shaft seal - but the Dealer appears to have been scamming me!

 

So AAM is the original engineered manufactured part.

The local mechanic has a worker who said that "after market" parts have to slightly change the size of the part so that they do not violate the PATENT LAW!!

Amazing. So that's why the AC Delco part is 2/10ths of an inch too big and keeps leaking - even if people get it put in six times by the dealer. haha.

And so I was able to look directly at the Seal - it was so exciting - to finally SEE the seal directly between the front differential and the oil pan. And it looked DRY!!! We all agreed that the leak did not look to be from that inner shaft or intermediate shaft seal.

But the owner mechanic said it looks like maybe the differential "half" is leaking - the two halves - need a new silicone high temp or RTV - sometimes the machining is off and so that leaks. The other mechanic said - that was "strange." But I knew that this sometimes does leak. 

Also just as I had said before - the Rack and Pinion IS leaking power steering fluid.

So then the other or third mechanic - a young man - he put in the UV detector fluid - the Fluorescent fluid that I bought yesterday - that is oil based. So they put it in the transmission and power steering and differential.

He said the front differential fluid was a little low but should be ok for a while.

So since it does NOT look like a seal is leaking - that means - the head mechanic agreed - that there is no worry of a "Blow Out" - and so we can just refill fluids as needed. It doesn't leak a LOT of fluid.

So that's the AAM part number but GM lists it as a different number that is then sold by AC Delco. So then people order it based on the GM number and so end up with the AC Delco seal that is 2/10ths of an inch too big. So they take apart the WHOLE front axle which is $2000 grand in labor cost - only to put in a new leaking seal. hilarious.

So these "tangs" are metal and do lock into the bearing. So it is a very sturdy seal for $16. If you buy it as AC Delco then it's twice the cost or more.

So now I just save the seal and in a week of driving - then we can check the leaks again with the UV light - just to make sure the seal is not leaking. But I personally saw that the seal looked DRY. And the mechanic talked with the OTHER local mechanic and they both agreed that they think the Dealer mechanics don't know what they're doing. Both seals that got fixed at the dealer had to be redone by the dealer for free. Each  mechanic told me to go back to the dealer for both pinion seals - one mechanic for the rear pinion seal and the other mechanic for the front pinion seal. haha.

So now they said the front pinion seal also looked dry - and the receipt said they torqued the bearing - like the mechanic told me to tell the dealer. So it now looks like finally both pinion seals are fixed.

MAYBE the oil leaking was just not cleaned up from the previous leak - because one of the mechanics was pissed that the dealer didn't even CLEAN off the grease from the previous leaking rear pinion seal!!

So that is a big relief that the "leaks" appear to not be potential "blow out" leaks - but both mechanics are dubious of my frame repair job. I explained I used phosphoric acid to convert the rust back to iron. But they said the rust will keep eating from within. But technically that is only possible is the rust can access oxygen. So then after the phosphoric acid treatment then I used the rust preventative paint and then also paraffin wax to keep off any further salt from sticking to the paint to eat through the rust.

So I think the treatment I did should be ok.