Tension roofs are governed by the physics of surface tension structures and so their shapes tend to conform to non-euclidean topologies. This may be one of the reasons why they are not more commonly used, as the engineering of these curving tensioned shapes is non-intuitive. But at a relatively small scale they can be quite simple, as we see with common tent shelters.
https://utilihab.fandom.com/wiki/Tension/Tent_Roofs
Two feet is the general maximum length for a typical roof overhang. This will protect a roof from most types of damage. Roof overhangs can extend farther than 2 feet, but beyond this length, they begin to lose structural integrity and require external supports.
So this is five feet!
R804.3.2.1.1 Eave overhang. Eave overhangs shall
not exceed 24 inches (610 mm) measured horizontally.
Well it's probably four feet horizontally.
No, overhang does not count. It is the square footage of the walls that is measured. Length multiplied by width of the building walls is the measurement of square footage
It's only 'permanent' structures that are regulated by your counties office of planning and land services. Concrete is is used to give a structure permanence. Cast-in-place reinforced concrete is the most permanent thing I can think of. Whether a foundation or slab on grade there are no concrete structures that are temporary.
Exactly again! I just have Willow poles in the ground - they grow naturally and will rot. So no concrete foundation at all...
Wow - this is what I had researched before but I still needed to double check this.
Now when I "build" I use no measurements - it's not square, nor level, nor plumb.... it's free-form improv Jazz Primitive building style. So I used tent poles - from my first tent in 2017 and a second free tent that I had used last summer...
I just went with the feel of it - to get the poles using Tensegrity. So I weaved them just like the Bronze Age walls -
This is looking "up" at the roof of the overhang - from below underneath.
So it's nonlinear chaos building style.
Now...
This is from inside the door - looking out. So the idea is to protect the front from snow and rain - so there is less water collecting around the willow poles in the ground - and less frost heaving. And less snow to shovel out to get in for the winter.
And also less wind coming through the front wall - the cracks in the door.
This is the side view - that tree on the left is what I have to go next to - between the Hermit Hut - as my new entrance. It's a squeeze but it's like the Berber huts - they purposely make the stairs and buildings all funky sizes to confuse any invaders.
OK that's a farther back view of the same entrance. Took me a bit to wonder if it was the other side or not. Nope - it's the same side.
Here's the new "front" of the Hermit Hut - pretty well camouflaged!
So the idea here is that the tarp is tied to the trees and the snow will pull the whole thing down. Then I clear off the snow - before the structure actually collapses. I don't know if it will work or not.
But considering how tight I got the weaving - like a Wattle and Daub wall - and those walls did "survive" the winter. But actually the front corners of the hut - those walls got pulled in by the Frost Heave. Kind of amazing - I didn't have any big vertical posts on the end corners... so they got pulled in but they survived. It's just I lost a little square footage on the inside. haha.
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