The Right Stuff is definitely an amazing Rubber Spray Sealant product: The leak is Definitely the Power Steering!

So I sprayed the Permatex Right Stuff - it is very expensive. It doesn't smell that bad but it's very goopy - it sprays out just like cheese in a can but if you try to "press" it in - then it just goops out. But it sticks very well - even upside down - it stayed on. So then at first I had no leak and I thought maybe... but then I went for a longer drive nonstop to really get the engine hot. I stuck paper under the car where the leak is - and sure enough - not too long after - the leak appeared.

So I went back under the car to investigate my "Right Stuff" sealant job - it looked pretty awesome - totally dry and it stayed on well. So that ruled out the Differential Seal for me - I felt all around it - DRY!!

So I felt around to find out where the leak was - it flows onto the frame and this time it HAD to be the power steering fluid. So it does not appear to be the seal in the "boot" of the power steering rack and pinion. The leak appears to be from the power steering "line." They apparently rust out easily in this car - but usually the rust is up in the engine area - since there is a rubber gasket that holds moisture. I already checked that area and I didn't see anything - and the leak is definitely from right over where the oil falls down.

So - how much to replace power steering lines? We had it "done" already but that was four years ago - which is almost 100,000 miles ago? I'll check....

So then I had a stronger cross wind and I got the strong whistling sound - the howl even. So when I got back then I did the "Right Stuff" to the windshield - it's PERFECT for that application - since it's much thicker and deeper than the previous rubber sealant product I used.  So at least I got a "productive" use out of the Right Stuff - and maybe it will prevent any future differential seal leak?

So I already put in that Lucas power steering stop leak but it says it does NOT work for the "high pressure" line - only maybe the low pressure line and the seals. So I should try to see if the leak is in the high pressure line - but I think it must probably be so - since the Lucas does not seem to be helping at all.

NOTES on FIXING:

How did you get the high pressure line to go in (to the rack)?

I figured out the trick. Easiest way is to remove the oil seals where the lines plug into the rack and replace them with 2 new seals. Put the new seals onto the lines first and then press the lines in. To remove the old seals, use a ⅜ x ¾ coarse thread bolt and spin it into the seals. Use a long extension over the half shaft boot to thread them in, and then a flat bar from the side to pry them out. They'll come right out without damaging the rack ports at all. I had bought new aftermarket lines on Amazon and the high pressure side didn't need a new seal, it is designed with a flange on the end of the line and you put an o ring over it, but you have to remove the oil seal and leave it out in order to be able to push the new line in with the flange on the end

  I stuck with the oe version lines with button seals.
 removing the button seals with lag bolt.

I used the seals that was in there and whrn i put the lines in one fell out. So i am at a loss. So i purchased new hoses for the customer and wortied that the new lines with the new seals will do the same thing.

had a leak in a return line near the radiator in the “cooler” section of the line (caused by a stupid metal clip on a wiring harness that rubbed a tiny hole in it). Repair cost estimate was very expensive, so I used a mini-tubing cutter, cut out a 1/2" length of the tubing and repaired it using a 3/16" brass compression union ($3) from the hardware store. Total repair = 3 bucks!

 I should add that for the high pressure line going from the pump to the rack and pinion that you need to use professional union fittings that will hold up to very high PSI. I found Swagelok fittings and they are great! They are stainless steel and feature a double ferrule design that will not slip off like a regular brass plumbing fitting. They do run about $16 a piece so they are not cheap but are essential! The low side can use regular fittings.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/power-steeing-high-pressure-line-burst

 Yes, the rack can be plugged causing a build up of pressure. You could try flushing the system. Also, there is a pressure control valve/direction flow valve. There is a chance the problem is coming from there. Here are directions to remove and replace it. I would suggest that you give it a try and check for any obstructions. I realize the pumps are new, but dirt can still enter them.