Because the transmission fluid thins while your vehicle is running and thickens after resting for a few hours, you should always check it after it has been running to get an accurate reading.So I just took out about two quarts from the transmission - I had a strong burning rubber smell and yesterday - from the dip stick readings - it seemed way over filled. The receipt says the pan drop was replaced with 8 NEW quarts - but normally you lose a third of the fluid and this car holds just over 11 quarts! So normally you put back in 3 to 4 quarts but sometimes 6 quarts. So the 7 quarts "plus" is for a diesel pan drop - not a gas engine:
Refill procedure if the pan is dropped is to add 7 quarts, then warm car and check level with 9336 dip stick and top of wih addtional fluid if needed.
Once you've drained 5 quarts (for gas engines) or 8 quarts (for diesels), the converter is flushed and you can reconnect the cooler line and top off the fluid level.
if you drop the pan change the filter it should be about 4 quarts but i would put 4 quarts in let it idle till it gets nice and hot. and then drive it around the block once or twice and get the fluid circulating through the trans. then check it.
if you drop the pan, replace the filter, put the pan back on, it will need 4.7 qts. I suggest put 4.5 and then run it through each gear for 5-10 seconds and end in park with the engine idling and check it. Top off as needed. You will not need more than 5 quarts.
Add half a quart at a time until the dipstick shows full. The transmission really isn't full yet because the dipstick should be checked when the fluid is hot, and the engine is idling with the gear selector in Park. So start the engine, drive the vehicle around the block, then recheck the fluid level while the engine is idling and add fluid as needed until the dipstick reads full.
With the engine still on and at idle, pull the transmission dipstick and check the fluid level. If it shows full, (or in the full range), wipe the dipstick clean then reinsert it back into the tube. Check fluid level a second time to confirm the reading. If it shows full a second time, you are done. If the fluid level is low, add no more than 1/3 quart of fluid – then recheck. Repeat this process, adding less fluid each time, until the dipstick reads full, or in the full range. Do NOT overfill.
Start the engine and leave it running for about five minutes, then recheck the level after the engine is warm. Put in as much fluid as needed until the dip-stick reads full.
The transmission fluid level ought to be at the upper end of the cold mark when the engine is cool, whereas in hot engine it should be at the upper end of the hot mark. Ensure the level of the fluid is in the safe zone’ between the two marks in a warm engine.
So that is the color of NEW transmission fluid.
Now another image of mine:
And now some older fluid:
So it's definitely more brownish color than red.
I took many photos in different light.
Wow - it is the BURNT color and it smells BURNT from being over filled! Amazing.
Overheated or low transmission fluid could be a potential source of this burning smell.
1. Overheating of the Transmission System
One of the main functions of the transmission fluid is to cool down the transmission system, and so it might sound odd that using too much of it can lead to overheating.
So in case someone needs to pump out an over filled transmission -
This pump absolutely does not work. It HAS to have the gravity of the container receiving the fluid being much lower than the transmission pan of the car.
So maybe if the car was on a hoist - but even then the tube would not be long enough.
Someone tried the above pump on youtube and said it did not work for their transmission fluid. SAME with me!!
This pump works well but you have to make sure to get the hose down far enough into the pan.
Performax® Grip Clip Transfer PumpThis pump is only $1 more than the other pump but its technology is probably 10 times better! An amazing difference.
This first pump advertises itself as for "any fluid" - yes in principle. Since the youtube person said it had not worked - then I asked the Auto Parts store workers and they quick chimed in: "It says it will work for ANY fluids so yes it works for Transmission FLUID."
NO - that's not how science works. If it does not counter the gravity of the transmission pan then the type of fluid is not the issue. haha.
So I took out about two quarts - and I think I'm getting a normal reading now.
If it's a bit low - compared to OVERFILLED - I think that's ok. I just need to drive to the dealer on Monday a.m.
Luckily I didn't take the interstate Autobahn when I drove up north - so the car would have then way overheated and most likely caused some real damage. The transmission seems to be working ok - but I did have cruise control on and so the engine braking was way more than normal. So I will not be using cruise control ever again. haha. When going 55 mph the car is in low rpm for overdrive 4th gear but to maintain constant speed then cruise control is always down shifting to do engine breaking for hills - to increase rpm - and so burns out the clutch packs.
Most 4L60E and 700R4 transmissions have only six clutch plates in the 3-4 pack.
"friction material"....
ah....
graphitic friction material is a paper-based material capable of storing more heathttps://www.raybestospowertrain.com/blog/choosing-the-right-friction-material-for-your-rebuild
OK so that would not make a burning rubber smell. Awesome.
It was just the transmission fluid going out of the "breather tube" of the transfer case.
Turned out to be the seal at the transfer case input all along.This can be damaged.
input seal replacement transfer case on 4 x 4 - vid
I had a outer seal in my transfercase go bad, letting fluid from the transmission get into the transfercase. This situation overfilled my transfercase and the extra trans fluid blew out the breather hose of the Transfercase.
I had to remove the transfercase from the rear of the transmission and replace the seal.
It was not fun, especially lifting the transfercase back into place by myself.
I had to clean all the vacuum lines out because tranny fluid got sucked up in them.
Pull the dipstick on the transmission and check the level. If it is really low, they may be a problem.The quickest way to tell if this happened is to remove the fill plug on the rear of the transfercase(the top plug, not the bottom plug) and see if alot of fluid comes out.None should really come out, maybe a little drip or two, Not a gusher.If it does, the seal needs replaced.
Almost 2 quarts of of fluid gushed out of mine.
Pull the upper plug on the back of the t-case. If fluid pours out, your input seal is bad. The next problem you may be facing is transmission fluid sucked into the vacuum system. This can migrate as far as the HVAC controls which can be a major pain to clean out!
The input seal on the transfer case IS the output seal [overflow port]on the tailhousing of the transmission.Changing transmission fluid vid
rear trans seal with a tiny spring in the middle that wrapped around the inside of the rubber.So it looks pretty dark and burnt. But when I hold it up to the light - I get a slightly better result.
Definitely NOT translucent like new fluid - as per the video.
So now I'm getting a low reading on the "hot" transmission fluid.
So here's the deal:
A local mechanic that is independent charges over $100 an hour. So the dealer is underpaying people to do this work - and they are overworked. The "service advisors" most likely work on a commission - based on how many repairs they get contracted...
So I will just change out the transmission fluid myself.
Their "real mechanics" get paid less than $30 an hour!!
So that's way less than what a highly skilled job should be paid - while the "administrators" there or managers or whatever - they take the profit pay.
It usually takes a THOUROUGH flush, and sometimes a couple days for the air to fully get out of the fluid. Truth be told, just dropping the pan, changing the filter, and refilling doesn't do SQUAT in a contaminated system. This doesn't get the contaminated fluid out of the trans cooler, the lines, or the torque converter - you only get about 4 qts of fresh fluid in a 10 qt +/- system - you still have at least half of the fluid contaminated.https://www.ramforum.com/threads/i-overfilled-my-transmission.120489/
We have run them up to 1 qt over with no side effects. If you overfill too much it will puke out from the breather tube.Oct 27, 2008
Yes , it will cause aeration of the oil. This will lead to soft shifts- may feel good at low performance but will be a death wish under high demand(aerated oil is spongy)It may cause oil to expel from the breather . Foamed oil also holds heat - too much heat cuts the lifespan of the oil.
A flush type change is the ONLY way to clean all/ most of the oil.
Overfilled 4L60E...How Will It Perform? - LS1TECH - Camaro and \\
If way overfull (way more than a quart), it can cause fluctuation in line pressure from aeration, and this in turn can burn up the 2-4 band, and or other clutches....
Too much and you can get it into the rotating assemblies makes like a blender pushing lots of air into the mix which will give a much weaker hydraulic apply and can burn frictions https://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread.php/5805-What-can-happen-if-the-trans-fluid-level-is-too-high
the 4l60 has an overflow tube on the top... In fact, I know it does. I've always heard that it'll just spit out the extra fluid thought that, and cause no problems.
the 4L60E has an overflow vent tube. If the fluid expands to overfull when it heats up the excess goes out the vent tube under the car. My vent tube is clipped to my torque arm.
As long as the tube isn't blocked or kinked there's no problem.
Ah ha. So it is up close to the front. I guess its good to have on there so tranny oil would not get onto any of the exhaust parts. Thanks for the pic.CANADIAN news informs us that the "service advisors" are paid by Commission! oops
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