I "peened" the edges of the cut - and so it's a pretty tight fit. I need to pull out the stove pipe for transporting purposes. Here's an Alaska DIY Peening vid for a similar wood stove bucket
More of an overhead shot.
another close up of the tight seal. One of these shots shows a crack in the seam.
There is the "hole" - but I think it still might be tight enough - as there hangs down some metal underneath from the peening. I can try putting some welding seam.
So then I snipped this out from a free Barbeque grill that was part of a Free Craig's List score. I went just for the tent listed and he was moving with his wife - retiring to a smaller place. So he gave me a couple back packs and a home made grill stove that is just for outdoor use.
close up of the tools used so far - that sculpture hammer works well for peening.
OK now back to the Hermit Hut.
A close up of the weld that split open from the hot exhaust pressure!!
So that's the widest part of the split - but I think there's another half inch of duct pipe still in there connecting and holding the exhaust in.
I could see no smoke - and there would definitely be smoke if it was leaking. You can see from the above image - there's still quite a bit of crimp area left.
And that gray matte on the duct pipe is from the oxidized zinc - meaning it got over 450 degrees fahrenheit.
So it didn't make any more popping sounds - even though I had quite a bit of wood loaded.
Another close up of the split weld. As I typed in the last blog post - I could push it back and try drilling it closed - but then the pressure would build up again - trying to "force" it free again. It's due to the angle of the stove pipe. So I'd rather not be fitting the pressure of the angle - in case it wants to then force the pressure out another part of the duct pipe. As long as it's not leaking - I could try putting on more weld. I just need to find the stuff! I'm not sure where I put the left over stove pipe weld (did I throw it out?).
Stovepipe Anchor Screws: ALL single-wall vent pipe should be screwed together at each joint with a minimum of 3 screws. #8 x 18 x 1/2", self-drilling HEX head screws with a black oxide finish.What I can do is replace that section with black stove pipe - which has built in screw holes - and is stronger pipe.
I think I used up one tub and I didn't use the tub - and it was only $5 - so I might have not saved it.
So now I need to make a door for that backpacking tent stove - and so more inside protection grill parts. I can cut out more metal from the Barbeque for the door. I need to buy some hangs and bolts for the door - with washer.
I'll get a one gallon coffee can to put inside the popcorn tin bucket - to protect the walls and floor - and then put in the grill hole iron bits in the coffee can.
Homemade STEEL CAN Rocket Stove! - The "BIG CAN" Rocket Stove! - Awesome Stove! - Easy DIY
Homemade TIN CAN Rocket Stove - DIY Rocket Stove - Awesome Stove! - EASY instructions!
So the idea is to use two cans - inside the popcorn bucket tin - so that the secondary air rises up around the heated inside stove - that is insulated. So there is no need for a top opening as secondary air to burn off the exhaust fumes....
1/2 DIY how to build a wood, portable tent emergency stove under $40 easy project with basic tools.
So I should get that 3 inch flue connector - as shown in vid.
My Winiarski Rocket Stove from a popcorn bucket vid
5. DIY 5 gallon bucket stove v.2 burn test
DIY Woodstove Instructions - Step by Step
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