How to Hang a Door with Miscellaneous Free Scrap Wood? An Eco-Echo Forest Cultivation Update

So I'm sure I did this "all wrong" - I did watch several youtube vids. But I have a few rules about construction - NO measurements! No "leveling" nor "squaring"!! So overall I think this came out all too rectilinear!

You can see the stove in the back with the pipe going out. It's not really connected - since I am still waiting on the 5 inch to 6 inch "increaser." oops I meant:  Imperial 6 in. Dia. x 5 in. Dia. Steel Stove Pipe Reducer (the term changes based on how you will use the product!)

So the OSB (Oriented Standard Board panels) - it's too wide and I had spaces in the side walls behind the OSB. So I just cut the OSB and flipped it back and - presto! - side wall fill-ins!! The green sticker says $5. Habitat for Humanity ReStore "door."

yeah I didn't get a photo of the side wall "fill-ins" as I worked until dark and then I went for meditation. Then it started pouring rain - very hard rain - around 4 am - and continued raining.

So I also did another batch of cob but I added some S-type mortar (1 part portland cement, 1 part lime, 6 parts sand) and some hydrated lime - to the cob (horse manure, 1 bucket, 5 buckets of clay and 1 bag of sand - around 50 pounds).

So I filled in more of the air spaces. I'll make another batch of cob and also I have half a bag of pumice Perlite! (for insulation) - with another bag of S-type mortar. So I'll add strength to the chimney wall and also put S-type mortar around the front and on the OSB to protect it from mold.

So I made a Lime-Wash as a mix of hydrated lime and S-type mortar (so it would dry faster). So it looks more gray from the cement. But I'm not going for "looks" - rather functionality. So that chimney wall is the right corner - so the cob seems to be holding up well. Behind that wall I piled up a huge mound of 100 bricks for "thermal mass."

Yeah you can see the pile of bricks in that earlier photo - but I added more bricks to that pile.

So then one of the interior "long" walls still needed clay "slip" (clay sludge water mixed with horse manure). So I threw that on the wall and on the back of the OSB on one side. I can make more horse manure clay slip for the interior.

This Lime Wash is mixed with S-Mortar and Hydrated Lime and Horse Manure. Hopefully it didn't all wash off in the heavy rain!

So I did actually use a Forstner bit to make the "mortices" for the hinges - i.e. instead of a chisel or router.

So a "cordless drill" makes construction EASY but just eye-balling it of course makes it all look silly (as it is supposed to look). A mockery of a sham of civilization.

Other Side

I had never heard of a Forstner Bit before until I watched some youtube vids on hanging doors.

I just got a $10 one since I didn't need a big one to make door mortices.

that one there is $22.

So also mixing S-type mortar with Hydrated Lime and Cob is a very quick way to get "Man Hands" as after several hours I felt burning pain and looked down to see my hands covered in a kind of reptilian scale formation. haha. Hopefully they'll recover. I did soak the hands in water and tried to scrub (but I didn't want to scrub too hard). I guess I just waited too long to get the cement off. https://trulyjuly.wordpress.com/2017/05/25/construction-always-wear-protective-gear-cement-burns/

As the cement is eating through your skin, you only feel the real pain when the outer layer has breached. Alkali damage causes no heat and no pain until it is too late to wash it off. Now the cement reacts with the water coming out from your wounds. At this point it gets difficult to simply wash off the plaster, as the chemical reaction progresses: the article states that vinegar can be used to slow down a burn by neutralizing the cement’s alkalinity.
First brush off any dry cement, then rinse the affected areas with clean water for 20 minutes.

So I plan to just put rock wool around the chimney duct pipe - in that wall hole - and then when I'm not using the wood stove, then I'll just hide the duct pipe back inside the hut. That way the local retired county land surveyor won't give me more trouble! haha.

So I will fill in the remaining air spaces with the rock wool I have left over - plus another batch of cob. I'll have to buy a few more things. I'm thinking of getting a real chimney black stove pipe "elbow" off the stove - as it will be very hot. I guess it should be a 45 degree elbow.

Also I'll need to add drainage ditches outside with probably buried perforated drain pipe (as I did around the teepee.

I'll keep my eyes on Craig's List FREE items - I've seen perforated drainage pipe ONCE on there. Maybe I'll get lucky.

I loaded up a lot of free scrap wood - and the "door" I got at the ReStore (plus the handle). I lost the inside latch - it's probably around here somewhere. I did buy that new.

Yes I need to do more Forstner bit drilling on the top of the door as it's rubbing close to the hinge.

Hanging the Door was a pain since I had to "balance" it while trying to level it while also holding the drill and hinge and screws, etc. And again I just used SCRAP wood with NO measurements. haha.


So then I can get that insulation for the door seams - for any cracks in the door. But still I don't want the hut totally Air Tight as I need draft for the stove. I left a crack open under one of the front walls. So I also tried installing a damper in the duct pipe to use for air intake control to the stove. But the youtube video dude said to put the washer on the OUTSIDE of the duct pipe and a comment insisted the youtube dude was stupid. His response was "i've been called stupid before" - not the best response. So I had the washer on the INSIDE of the duct but the youtube dude was correct - it was OUTSIDE. Maybe because he had a speech impediment - then that's why someone called him stupid. Hmm.

So... anyway that crack will not control a 6 inch duct pipe intake anyway. I'll figure something out. I'm not too concerned as the hut has thick insulation and it does need air ventilation anyway. And it's small enough that even if it is "sucking in" air from all the cracks - at random - that should not counteract the insulation too much. Also the thermal mass should store a lot of heat. From what I read - with enough thermal mass then you can have cracks for air ventilation and it's not an issue.

"Quantum physics do apply to life. Entanglement means that there can be links of substances that have been attached somewhere. There is plenty of proof that also frequencies of substances can be imprinted on water. As crazy as this may sound, I personally do not want such links to other people. Such thinking is familiar to millions of people and there are traces of this in old cultural knowledge, too."

Dr. Ralf Otterpahl