used this as a barb for a trans cooler. worked fine...2002 Chevrolet Tahoe Z71 (VIN Z). I attached the fitting to the connector where the transmission fluid comes out of the radiator. I attached a 10ft length of 3/8" inside diameter vinyl tubing to the other end of the fitting...Installs as easily as claimed. Unfortunately it leaks badly. It seems to be undersized for my 2008 Trailblazeer SS. [oh no!!]..Worked well for adding a trans cooler to my trailblazer.[Oh yes!!]
So I pull out the cooler line - after I remove the plastic holder and the retaining clip (little tool that wraps around the line, you then slide it up into the fitting, turn it and it will spread the clip allowing the line to be removed via special tool needed)...
Then I instead install the above into the cooler as per the above comment and "fit" for my make/model...Then I connect 3/8" 3/8 ID, transmission cooler hose... with two clamps to this:
Then I connect a 2nd hose back to the transmission cooler line!!
GM has a TSB for the 4T65E and 4L60E transmissions outlining how to install better magnets in the pan and on the stock filter (strainer) to avoid poisoning the Pressure Control Solenoids with the iron crud in the oil. These filters are a better option IMHO.
So turns out that there was a Technical Service Bulletin calling on Techs to install a 2nd magnet in the transmission pan!! This should be much better. There's a lot of FAKE ones of the above magnetic filter:
An original MagneFine filter will have a label with both the MAGNEFINE logo, and possibly another manufacturer’s name (if relabeled). There will also be a RED ARROW and the BLUE word FLOW. There will be an ISO 9001 number on the label. There will be a BATCH number on the label. Finally, there is a molded MAGNEFINE (name) logo and flow arrow, on the screw-on cap, under the paper label.
I don't know but from what I can tell it is "genuine." If not then it can destroy the transmission since it doesn't have an overflow valve! oops.... So a technical bulletin was sent out ten years ago. As
the new clutch patches are broken in the metal bits are sucked into the
pressure control solenoid (since it's an electromagnet!) causing the
"line pressure to be less than needed." So the technical bulletin (to be
done on transmission service) is to install a 2nd magnet while also
replacing the 1st magnet. The technical bulletin says do NOT do this unless the transmission is being serviced (at 50K miles!!). Wow - that's a lot of damage in the meantime. I'm at 18K on the rebuilt transmission.
Further research showed that it wasn't always or often a solenoid failure, but iron particles partly jamming the solenoids. According to John Eleftherakis and Abe Khalil, who have done a series of ATF studies for the OE trans manufacturers and the aftermarket starting in the late '80s, approximately 90 percent of the contamination in a trans is metallic; 51 percent of that being ferrous (iron/steel), 21 percent copper, 11 percent aluminum and 7 percent lead. The particles range in size from 5 to 80 microns, about 82 percent of them larger than 5 microns. Obviously the exact mix is going to vary but it's clear that much of it is iron and that a pan filter at 80 um is going to let a LOT of it pass. According to Eleftherakis and Khalil, the typical makeup of contaminants is about 51 percent steel, 21 percent copper (copper wool clutch linings), 11 percent aluminum, and 7 percent lead (from bushings). Some 82 percent of the particles are larger than five microns in size, though only 15 percent of them are larger than 15 microns.
And this transmission is notorious for the "slip and bump" since once that pressure control solenoid is covered in metal bits then obviously it can't do its job properly.
one of the mainline solenoids is slow to respond and on acceleration from a stop the trans slips for a second due to low pressure, then hooks up with a bump... the severity of which is relative to throttle application. Obviously, the long term effect of this is a tranny job.
So
my NEW rebuilt trans - that explains why I got some "slip and bump"
already. But if I get it flushed - turns out 50% of the contamination is
metal and 80% of that metal will go through the filter - and the flush
is with the transmission in neutral - so the solenoid should be
demagnetized. Hopefully that will get rid of enough metal bits...
It's really a pretty good gearbox overall but you can kill it quickly letting it slip and bump too long
It
took a lot of digging to discover this shenanigan - because if you do
NOT address it then eventually the notorious "slip and bump" will
destroy the transmission again... and what else? hmmm. Oh yeah the transmission
has a 3 to 1 ratio from 1st to 2nd gear making it very EASY to "BURN
RUBBER" - along with the extra torque of the straight or inline six engine.... So
that's why the transmission burns out fast because it's precisely that "slip and
bump" from a neutral to 1st and into 2nd...with the extra 3 to 1 ratio
pressure....
the EPC [electronic pressure control] is not decreasing line pressure and doing the opposite that's why it's causing a hard shift perhaps? i've also noticed on all things wrong with a 4l60e transmission if it goes into gear very harsh from Parking or Neutral an EPC may be the cause?
And then it's a big pain to replace that
pressure control solenoid part on its own. hahahaha.
As current flow is
increased, the magnetic field produced by the coil moves the
solenoid's plunger further away from the exhaust port. Opening
the exhaust port decreases the output fluid pressure regulated by
the PC solenoid valve, which ultimately decreases line pressure.
So I'm supposed to
install the $25 part:
Magnefine 3/8" Magnetic Inline Transmission/Power Steering Filter
Also, the Magnefine places the magnet right into cooler line flow, so it's going to do a significantly better job of grabbing particles than something laying in the pan...I can only assume that at least some of the buildup drops off when the solenoid is de-magnetized. Anyway, it was a dramatic change and I don't take note of things that aren't.
As most of you know the Magnefine consists of a 30 um filter and a very large magnet, past which all the cooler line flow has to pass. Now, 30 um filration is not the most whizbang number by itself, but if you consider the magnet will catch 95% of the ALL the iron, regardless of size, (a number given to me years back by Magnefine and one I have little cause to doubt), and since iron is half the overall metallic contaminant, then it does pretty well indeed. Found a place to install the Magnefine, cut and flared the cooler line, and installed it. This was about three months back. I noted the problem about three times the first time I drove it and it hasn't happened since. Three months and about 3K miles later, it hasn't happened again so I am provisionally declaring the problem cured.
the best way, and universally recommended, is after the radiator line and going back in to the transmission. Here is why I think so, and agree: When the fluid is cooled, it is less likely to wear out your filter. Some might say that it shouldn't be before the radiator/cooler because the pressure (and fluid) may be restricted by the filter. IDK if that's true but I would rather have cooler fluid running thru my inline filter. I just installed my auxiliary radiator and inline filter today (November 08, 2017). Here's my personal tip: I used a clear, threaded hose (from ACE Hardware, usually used for plumbing or washing machines, I think) after the secondary filter. It's not really rated for what it's doing but I did it so that I could SEE my fluid-- the color of it, as well as the flow.
Parts Needed:
1) four fuel injection hose clamps
2) one foot of 3/8 inch High Pressure Transmission Hose Line
3) GM Genuine Parts Multi-Purpose Clip
at O'Reilly Autoparts
GM Part # 15052228ACDelco Part # 15052228
4) GM Genuine Parts Multi-Purpose Retainer
at Autovalue store
GM Part # 24205103ACDelco Part # 24205103
5) NAPA:
1) Fuel Line Tool Fuel Line Quick Disconnect Tool or a
Lisle 37140 Disconnect Pliers, 45 Degree
2) Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Fitting Kit
6) Magnefine magnetic Filter (OEM through ebay)
The line you want to remove is on the right side (passenger side) of the radiator. That's the cooler feed line.
I used a small flat head screw driver to pry out the clip when I installed my tranny cooler. Was pretty easy to pry out.There's no worries when it comes to the little plastic piece. I believe the only purpose it serves is by keeping dirt and debris out of the metal clip and so it wouldn't hurt anything even if it did break. It pops right off with a small flathead. One thing you do have to be careful about is having that little metal cllip pop off and land somewhere in the engine compartment. Ask me how I know!The cooler line that you want to remove is the one on the passenger side of the radiator. There's a little plastic washer type deal that you have to pop off the line where it goes into the radiator. You then have to take a small screwdriver and some needle nose pliers and remove the metal clip. The line will then pop right out of the cooler. When looking at the line it looks like you take a 3/4 wrench to the nut to get it off but don't. That removes the fitting from the cooler and it can be tough getting it back in. Removing the clip is the way to go.The secret to the lines is to slide the black plastic back and then remove the retaining clip from the line. Then, push in on the line and pull straight out.little tool that wraps around the line, you then slide it up into the fitting, turn it and it will spread the clip allowing the line to be removed.
OK so first a Transmission Flush! I just got 12 quarts of synthetic ATF:
The drain tube started to spit & sputter, blew out of the jug, did the crazy-dazy, blasting ATF everywhere! These 4L60E's must have a hi volume pump as they will pump a gallon of warm ATF in around 10-15sec. You will get almost exactly a gallon of ATF out each time before it runs dry. You will only get ~4qts [6 qts deep pan] out with each pump out since the pump looses prime once the pan empties. The pan holds ~4qts [6 qts deep pan]. Pump'er out just until it looses prime, stop the engine, fill it up with 4qts [6 quarts] and repeat. I did it 3x [twice with 6 quarts]. At button up time I couldn't get the trans line reseated into the radiator fitting. The napa quick disconnect tool worked like a charm for that. The tool allows you to concentrate the force in the right place & the line snapped right into it's seat.
It takes a few extra quarts of fluid beyond the "capacity" of the transmission, the new fluid gets mixed with the old in the torque converter, so a little new fluid is lost in order to assure the old stuff is gone.
I put 11.5 in and topped it off with another 1/2 quart. Right on the fulll mark at temp.
Using a long-neck funnel with a built-in screen is recommended
https://martintire.com/transmission-fluid-flush-tips/
The problem is even normal driving can push fluid temperatures well beyond safe limits. And once that happens, the trouble begins.At elevated operating temperatures, ATF oxidizes, turns brown and takes on a smell like burnt toast. As heat destroys the fluid's lubricating qualities and friction characteristics, varnish begins to form on internal parts (such as the valve body) which interferes with the operation of the transmission. If the temperature gets above 250 degrees F., rubber seals begin to harden, which leads to leaks and pressure losses. At higher temperatures the transmission begins to slip, which only aggravates overheating even more. Eventually the clutches burn out and the transmission calls it quits.
At 220 degrees, which is commonly encountered in many transmissions, the fluid is only good for about 25,000 miles. At 240 degrees F., the fluid won't go much over 10,000 miles.
A synthetic ATF is the only way to go IMHO as it does not breakdown in performance at 200-220F (insanely high temperatures that would otherwise decrease petro ATF life).
Hot ATF from the transmission circulates through a short loop of pipe and is thus "cooled." Cooling is a relative term here, however, because the radiator itself may be running at anywhere from 180 to 220 degrees F.!
Tests have shown that the typical original equipment oil cooler is marginal at best. ATF that enters the radiator cooler at 300 degrees F. leaves at 240 to 270 degrees F., which is only a 10 to 20% drop in temperature, and is nowhere good enough for extended fluid life.
....................
Add half a quart at a time until the dipstick shows full. The transmission really isn't full yet because the dipstick should be checked when the fluid is hot, and the engine is idling with the gear selector in Park. So start the engine, drive the vehicle around the block, then recheck the fluid level while the engine is idling and add fluid as needed until the dipstick reads full.
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