https://www.challengertalk.com/threads/removing-stripped-clip-bolt.347658/
OK so Stripped Clip Nuts are now a real thang!!
The driver side upper trailing arm bolt ALSO now just spins around and
won't tighten. So I'm just gonna rust treat the trailing arm and mount -
and paint it over. hahahaha. Car seems to drive better for sure with
the new bottom rear trailing arms in....
So I found this thread:
They couldn't get those stupid bolts off either. They ended up taking a
hole saw to slightly enlarge the holes in the underside of the hood to
get to those bolts and basically destroy the clips.
hahaha. Even the professional mechanics can't get at those stripped clip nuts. Hilarious!!!
I managed to strip a couple of the clip-on nuts...I have had to replace several of the nut plates on mine twice now,.
https://www.snowblowerforum.com/threads/stripped-frame-nut.110818/
One of the bolts have stripped the frame nut so now I have to spend a
lot of time trying to hold a nut and screw in the bolt. Of course it
would be beside the tension pulley so there is only enough room for 1
finger and the nut will fall many times and you have to keep on trying. I
know that I could weld a nut there and be done with it but I have know
way to take snowblower to a shop to have done. Also the original frame
nuts aren't really nuts it like a hedge that had threads in it. Is there
some sort of clip on nut or something that I can purchase and put
there?
https://www.challengertalk.com/threads/removing-stripped-clip-bolt.347658/
I find that the genius who installed it stripped out 3 of the 5 u-clip
bolts holding it on. Probably from just zipping it on with an air
ratchet, not giving a crap about ever getting it off.
I can't find a picture of the type of bolt I'm talking about, but think
of one of these with a bolt thread tacked on instead of a nut:
There is no reaching these suckers as they are inside the scoop. All I
can get to is the nuts, and the bolt part just spins. The whole thing is
recessed , and there is no getting an open end wrench on the nut to
hold it still while I try to drill it out.
Any ideas on removing these bolts?
https://nastyz28.com/threads/stripped-threads-on-j-clips-holding-in-the-front-leaf-spring-perch.304750/
But guess what, by just screwing in the new bolts in the new j-clips I apparently stripped all threads of the 6 j-clips.
The ones that are a threaded barrel and the ones that have a nut welded
or crimped on the clip. The barrel style always seem to strip.
Definitely a nut welded !! Still stripped out!!
I got in my new lower rear trailing control arms but BOTH
upper control arms had the J clip nut STRIPPED!! So I cracked the bolt
free and the bolt just spins in that clip. very annoying. There's no way
to fix it - I can't tighten them now either. Luckily the control arms
seem to be in fine condition - as I had been treating them with
phosphoric acid before to stop any rust. The car does seem to drive
better with the new lower control arms. Still now I have a box of brand
new upper rear control arms - kind of frustrating. Maybe I should just
recycle them at the scrap place? I guess I'll save them - who knows -
maybe someone will figure out HOW to free that stripped nut clip bolt!!
Got any ideas? thanks
I hate when clip nuts fail I have gotten things like that out before but it gets intense. Usually need a torch or a cutting device. Then remove everything even if you have to melt it out then replace clips and bolts its definitely the caveman approach but it's usually all you can do. Thanks for watching
You should be able to access the nuts and manually physically hold them with a wrench or likewise. Might be easy with a pair of vice grips if the bolts threads are clean and maybe sprayed with wd40 or likewise 
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@Mr John 613 Builds yeah that's what I thought I first - I used a hose pliers 90 degrees to hold the clip nut. The clip nut was not spinning anyway - it's just the stripped threads I guess. So holding the clip nut didn't help at all. I looked this up and on other cars I guess it's a huge pain also - the bolt and nut clip have to be destroyed essentially to fix the problem. haha. I just slapped some JB Weld Steel Stik on the part of the trailing mount bracket that had rust rot - after I treated the whole thing with phosphoric acid. I converted all the rust and then painted it with rust reformer and then enamel. So the actual control arm is still solid. I think it should be fine as the new lower control arms seem to be making a difference!! They're the big beefy ones anyway - the upper ones don't have as much torque control since they're so thin. Well - thanks for the feedback.
Well I already have another thought 
. Did you try reversing the bolt out with an impact while trying to hold the tab that comes off the side of the nut by putting something through the little hole on the frame? You can also try slipping a 5 in 1 or putty knife under the bolt while quickly reversing it out. Sometimes that makes threads that barely remain catch just to get it out one last time.
@Dan Random ok yeah someone else suggested that and indeed first I used the boroscope - and saw the nut clip. then I used a 90 degree hose pliers to grab it. Made no difference since it's not spinning itself - it's just the thread. Then I tried pressure against the end of the bolt on the inside of the frame as I unscrewed the bolt - nothing. I like that idea of the 5 in 1 pressure. I'll see if I have something like that around. Thanks for the feedback!!
That sucks. First thought I have without it in front of me is to try drilling it all out (have new hardware ready in hand) while holding the bolt with vise grips. Another problem is finding new hardware as others have told me they could not locate any but I'm not sure if they tried dealerships or shop manuals. I will let you know if I have any better thoughts or ideas about this.
@Dan Random Yeah this is the big issue - I tried to find the 21 mm rear control arm bolt. I maybe found it but was not sure. Not sure if I saved that link. I think I found the nut clips. Still I need both of them to really fix this. Otherwise it's probably best just to not mess with them. They seem to be holding fine. I'll take it for a spin - now that BOTH of my rear upper lateral arms are "free" to move up and down. hahaha. The new lower control arms definitely seem to help the lateral movement. So I'm happy overall - they're way beefier as far as taking the torque load.
Yeah, the lowers are the main load bearing
ones as can be told by how the lowers are tubular but the uppers are
just rather flimsy stamped pieces in comparison.
@Gibson Garage Speed Shop yeah I can't find the clip nut at all. I ordered two new bolts. The nut is stripped on the inside of the frame though - so not sure how sawing the head off the bolt would help. I put the wheel back on - and will see if the bolt holds. The other side held I think. haha. It doesn't have as much load bearing as the lower rear control arm - as the upper is just flimsy metal. So now it can rotate freely. If I find the new clip nut replacements - then maybe I can figure out some plan to get the bolt out.... someone suggested just using a 5 in 1 to push the bolt out as I unscrew it - that might work. I tried pushing the bolt out from the inside of the frame - and didn't get enough pressure on the bolt as it was spinning.
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