Sunday, January 16, 2022

Secret of the Century Stove baffle plus ceramic insulation board design, part 4 - finally figured it out

 part 1

part 2 

part 3 

 "it goes off each side and up, the fire goes just across the top right above the insulation board - so it strikes the metal plate and then goes back towards the flue." 

OK does that mean you STILL have the Century baffle in ABOVE the insulation board? I am guessing so - if you do then that is a CRITICAL part of the design and you need to explain that better to people. That is what cools off your smoke before it hits the actual stove steel. thanks

Double M Innovations refuses to response to my email enquires on his design that he is offering to people - so I had to figure it out on my own!! 

 Double M Innovations

I left the stove intact. I didn't remove any baffle from, and I never said I did. I thought I explained how the exhaust travel in the first video. I will be making another video of what I did inside this stove it in the future. It's just an arrangement of firebrick and ceramic fib. insul. board. That's all.
2
 @Double M Innovations  Thanks for that crucial clarification. I was farm-sitting the past week so just got back. THAT explains the whole secret! See people do not understand how the Century stove has the baffle going all the way to the back of the stove. Glad you will make a vid just on that secret. All the best and congrats.
 
 Voidisyinyang Voidisyinyang
OK yeah you don't actually mention any baffle in this vid so glad you are making another vid on the Century stove baffle design. I have a baffle in my stove but it doesn't go all the way to the back. So my stove would get too hot if I just created a ceramic fire box in the front. I'm trying to figure out how to get around that. Still - congrats on your design. thanks

where i live in northern minnesota
we just ended about a two week below
zero cold snap
and i wanted to show some improvements i
had made in heating an area
with a wood stove this is in a living
quarters i
built in the barn i lived in while i
built the house
it's about 350 square feet this is just
a basic wood stove
it was the smallest and the cheapest one
i could find i found it at menards
though it's was advertised at being
about 60 percent efficient
i highly doubt that it was even 50
efficient
i'm sure about 50 percent of the heat
went out the chimney
the fire never really seemed to get real
hot you know it's but it's lined with
fire brick on the bottom
was lying the fire brick on the sides
and the first improvement i made from
what i learned from a rocket stove
is how the insulated firebox really
improves
the efficiency the first improvement i
made
to the stove was that i insulated the
firebox
i removed the fire brick from the sides
and i put one in ceramic fiber
board around the sides and a two inch
ceramic fiber board over the top for
like a ceiling
of the firebox and i also shortened up
the depth
so i made a and there's a passage behind
the firebox that'll go to the back of
the stove
and then the flue gasses and flames will
roll up
over the top of that towards the front
again and then
back over the metal plate that was in
the stove and out the flue
and that really seemed to improve the
burn the fibers are smaller
but they're hotter i can still get
pretty good size pieces of wood in there
this size will fit in there
pretty easy after the fire goes out i'll
show the inside a little better and try
to explain how the
full gases pass out through
the second improvement i made to this
wood stove heating system
is i added a chimney heat reclaimer
this is the big black pipe stove by pier
that goes up
and then back out to the chimney i just
removed the six inch
piece that went straight out
and came out into this eight inch
now i came up with this design probably
about
30 years ago i've used this before
in the cabin where i lived when i was a
younger man it always worked very well
what it is is a eight inch
standard stove pipe and the inside is a
five inch
pipe just a duct pipe and what happens
aerothermal siphon air will enter the
bottom
and as it warms it'll rise up
and exit out the top and in effect
they'll take the cold air off the floor
and blow it out the top well it's kinda
you can i put a little piece of paper on
the ceiling you can see
the air motion that we're getting you
know it's circulating through
and i'll hold a piece of newspaper by
the intake and you can see
how it's sucking here off the floor
i'll try to take some temperature
readings now so you can get an idea of
what's happening here
the stove top about 400
some degrees there try the side
400 300
now open up the stove to see if we get a
reading it's probably going to
be too much for the thermometer
i'll just crack this open
yes that's just the metal right there
[Music]
i'll try to follow the temperature
as it goes out the flue
let's get a little closer
so it's about 150 degrees by the time
it gets to the chimney pipe
and there you can see the heated air is
exhausting
i'll try to get a temperature on that
but i don't think it's going to show up
too good on that galvanized
that's about 80.
i guess on that newspaper clipping we're
getting about 110 degrees
the third improvement that i made was
adding
thermal storage in this pot here on the
stove
it's full of wax and that's a
phase transition heat storage material
it's just looks like it's just starting
to melt now
it takes many many btus to melt this wax
into the liquid phase so just sit there
and absorb and absorb more and more
heat more than you could with water or
even fire brick i do
put some fire brick around the top of
the stove too
but this wax after it's all liquid
it'll radiate heat back out into the
room again for hours
while changes back into a solid it's
very efficient
thermal heat storage material
these are the improvements i made to
this heating system
and i think it was well worth it at
least it doesn't feel like i'm throwing
heat out the chimney anymore
and it sure takes a lot less wood
the fire is out so i'll show you the
inside here to get a little
better look at what i'm talking about
on top here there's two inches at
ceramic fiber board
it's kind of this is the stuff here
leftover piece
see the reduced size
firebox with the channels in the back
it goes off to each side and up the fire
goes just across the top
right above the insulation board
so it strikes the metal plate and then
goes
back towards the flue it burns very hot
that's why the door

 OK because I don't have that special Century Stove baffle design then I better just put the ceramic fiber board up above the metal baffle - and this will insulate the fire box to radiate the heat back down into the fire for a better secondary burn.

https://www.hearthstonestoves.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/combustion-cutaway.jpg


This is how the hearthstone wood stove baffle system works.

So the metal baffle is below and the ceramic fiber board insulation is above the metal called the "secondary air deflector."   This will protect the fiber board and leave me just as much space for the fire box!

So that's the Hearthstone installation vid - it's stainless steel underneath the baffle

 

 Stainless steel is a 1400 F. limit whereas this normal steel is only 1000 F. limit.

AH - so... interesting.

 

yeah the Hearthstone wood stove has the ceramic fiber board - I think it's vermiculite that is technically a type of ceramic - and it's above the metal baffle. It's their own "brand" of "ceramic board" but has the same temperature limit as ceramic fiber board. 

Only the baffle (deflector shield) is stainless steel that has a 1400 F. temp limit compared to 1000 F. for just steel. So also they use soapstone in the back of the stove with more vermiculite - so to protect the wood stove steel. It's all kind of tricky to increase the heat yet not burn out the steel. haha. Also to radiate yet insulate... I want the thermal mass radiation - I have the wood stove lined outside of it with brick and then a big pot of water on top. I'll try put the ceramic fiber on top of the steel baffle and hopefully the baffle won't get too hot. That way the fire box won't be too small. Should be interesting. I'll get an infrared thermometer gun from Harbor Fright - to see what happens. thanks

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/steel-plate-vs-ceramic-fiber-boards-as-a-baffle.21120/

 I used steel plate with some 1" ceramic insulation on top.

There you go!

I would say it has worked quite well. The stove seems to put out a lot more heat now.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/ceramic-fiber-board-englander-30-nc.116069/ 

my mod works well, burns much cleaner,

1 inch ceramic board baffle.

 I have thought of(and may still do it) cutting out an1/8 or 1/16" piece of stainless plate and put it between the boards and tubes. This way I would likely never have an issue as long as the stainless could take the heat.

i dont see the need to use stainless,the whole rest of the stove is plain steel.

Need 2 piece to fit it stuff dosen't flex


First attempt (above) with a full sheet of stainless was an epic fail with aforementioned warpage - second go round seen here has been burning 24/7 since November with no sigh of warping or wear and personally it gives me a little bit of insurance against baffle board failure. So if you are going to give it a try cut the plate into 4" strips - good to go.


fascinating!!

The large plate would flex something awful when heated and my guess was due to heating unevenly. The smaller plate never moved. So I cut it into the 4" strips and whola, works like I wanted.

Makes for easier secondaries
at lower input air settings.

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/ceramic-fiber-board-inside-top-stove.82851/ 

The local temperatures immediately around the secondary burn tubes and baffle are supposed to be hot enough to acheive near complete combustion... which means ~1100 deg F.

So this vid is saying to DEFINITELY have the ceramic insulation baffle pushed all the way to the back of the stove to create the "cyclonic action"

So then the baffle goes towards the front of the stove - and then after the baffle heats up to 1200 F. then as the smoke rolls over the baffle it should ignite into secondary burn on the way back to the stove collar exhaust....

* IMPORTANT * If you have a regency stove, or any stove that have baffles with a small space between the pair, make sure that when you start your stove up for the first time in the fall/winter that there are no particles of creosote covering that small slit (laying on top of the bricks) between the two baffles that may have fallen down from your chimney, onto the baffles, over the course of the Summer. If that space gets blocked with those particles it will be almost impossible to get the chimney affect started with your stove the first time you light it and you may end up with a room full of smoke.

I really needed to replace the two metal bars that hold up the two baffles. After a few years of use they disintegrate.

 So that's what will happen to my steel baffle. haha.

This small wood stove has a steel baffle with ceramic fiber board for the back and two sides - nothing on the bottom

So I guess there's some versatility allowed with these designs.

 

https://www.stovax.com/download/Technical%20Documents/1.%20Stoves/Traditional/Wood%20&%20Multi-fuel/Huntingdon/Huntingdon%20Installation%20&%20User%20Instructions.pdf

Rumsford design baffle!

https://elixirfield.blogspot.com/2019/09/the-houdini-slanted-rumford-open.html

 

 

 













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