"it goes off each side and up, the fire goes just across the top right above the insulation board - so it strikes the metal plate and then goes back towards the flue."
OK does that mean you STILL have the Century baffle in ABOVE the insulation board? I am guessing so - if you do then that is a CRITICAL part of the design and you need to explain that better to people. That is what cools off your smoke before it hits the actual stove steel. thanks
Transcript
the fire is out so i'll show you theinside here to get a littlebetter look at what i'm talking abouton top here there's two inches atceramic fiber boardit's kind of this is the stuff hereleftover piecesee the reduced sizefirebox with the channels in the backit goes off to each side and up the firegoes just across the topright above the insulation boardso it strikes the metal plate and thengoesback towards the flue it burns very hotthat's why the doorstays clean
OK because I don't have that special Century Stove baffle design then I better just put the ceramic fiber board up above the metal baffle - and this will insulate the fire box to radiate the heat back down into the fire for a better secondary burn.
This is how the hearthstone wood stove baffle system works.
So the metal baffle is below and the ceramic fiber board insulation is above the metal called the "secondary air deflector." This will protect the fiber board and leave me just as much space for the fire box!
So that's the Hearthstone installation vid - it's stainless steel underneath the baffle
Stainless steel is a 1400 F. limit whereas this normal steel is only 1000 F. limit.
AH - so... interesting.
yeah the Hearthstone wood stove has the ceramic fiber board - I think it's vermiculite that is technically a type of ceramic - and it's above the metal baffle. It's their own "brand" of "ceramic board" but has the same temperature limit as ceramic fiber board.
Only the baffle (deflector shield) is stainless steel that has a 1400 F. temp limit compared to 1000 F. for just steel. So also they use soapstone in the back of the stove with more vermiculite - so to protect the wood stove steel. It's all kind of tricky to increase the heat yet not burn out the steel. haha. Also to radiate yet insulate... I want the thermal mass radiation - I have the wood stove lined outside of it with brick and then a big pot of water on top. I'll try put the ceramic fiber on top of the steel baffle and hopefully the baffle won't get too hot. That way the fire box won't be too small. Should be interesting. I'll get an infrared thermometer gun from Harbor Fright - to see what happens. thanks
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/steel-plate-vs-ceramic-fiber-boards-as-a-baffle.21120/
I used steel plate with some 1" ceramic insulation on top.
There you go!
I would say it has worked quite well. The stove seems to put out a lot more heat now.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/ceramic-fiber-board-englander-30-nc.116069/
my mod works well, burns much cleaner,
1 inch ceramic board baffle.
I have thought of(and may still do it) cutting out an1/8 or 1/16" piece of stainless plate and put it between the boards and tubes. This way I would likely never have an issue as long as the stainless could take the heat.
i dont see the need to use stainless,the whole rest of the stove is plain steel.
Need 2 piece to fit it stuff dosen't flex
First attempt (above) with a full sheet of stainless was an epic fail with aforementioned warpage - second go round seen here has been burning 24/7 since November with no sigh of warping or wear and personally it gives me a little bit of insurance against baffle board failure. So if you are going to give it a try cut the plate into 4" strips - good to go.
fascinating!!
The large plate would flex something awful when heated and my guess was due to heating unevenly. The smaller plate never moved. So I cut it into the 4" strips and whola, works like I wanted.
Makes for easier secondaries
at lower input air settings.
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/ceramic-fiber-board-inside-top-stove.82851/
The local temperatures immediately around the secondary burn tubes and baffle are supposed to be hot enough to acheive near complete combustion... which means ~1100 deg F.
So then the baffle goes towards the front of the stove - and then after the baffle heats up to 1200 F. then as the smoke rolls over the baffle it should ignite into secondary burn on the way back to the stove collar exhaust....
* IMPORTANT * If you have a regency stove, or any stove that have baffles with a small space between the pair, make sure that when you start your stove up for the first time in the fall/winter that there are no particles of creosote covering that small slit (laying on top of the bricks) between the two baffles that may have fallen down from your chimney, onto the baffles, over the course of the Summer. If that space gets blocked with those particles it will be almost impossible to get the chimney affect started with your stove the first time you light it and you may end up with a room full of smoke.
I really needed to replace the two metal bars that hold up the two baffles. After a few years of use they disintegrate.
So that's what will happen to my steel baffle. haha.
So I guess there's some versatility allowed with these designs.
Rumsford design baffle!
https://elixirfield.blogspot.com/2019/09/the-houdini-slanted-rumford-open.html
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