I've been watching truck frame vids - I made a playlist of them - on rust removal and conversion.
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLaxpujmz7Q04pPF5KmzOSVAuQyuIi4a1k
The two local mechanics - in the two local towns - now both refuse to work on my car due to their fear of frame rot. They say I have to remove all the rust first before I can fix the frame.
I'm attempt to go for the "eternal pillar of India" - which is what percentage phosphorus? I think it's 8% phosphorus in the iron. The prevents any rust.
So I read up on comments and learned that the rust HAS to breathe - whereas I had used an epoxy that must have trapped moisture. So I got "rust creep" under the paint. But that was on the frame.
Now often “rust creep” occurs when the rust gets under the coating and can work out from the center of the compromised coating. If you let coating deteriorate over time it can “creep” but it is the failing of the coating that allows the rust to spread.
If you want to correct or stop rust “creep” you need to remove the rust or seal it up so water and oxygen can’t get to it and allow it to work. Small rust bubbles or pinholes are usually the tip of the iceberg and you need to remove some of the coating around the bubble to fully expose the rust and remove the failing coating. Learn how to spot repair rust bubbles
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I probably don't have to tell you this but sealing in rust is VERY bad and can lead to the acceleration of the rusting process and increases the chances of catastrophic failure. Sealing a wound up like that allows it to continue to rot, sight unseen, until after the fact. You need to be able to continue treating the rust, if you're not going to 100% remove it.the rust reformer should be breathable.The vast majority of paints can technically be classed as “breathable”, as they will eventually allow some moisture to escape. ...
Someone else claimed they prefer epoxy paint on the chassis (truck frame) because it keeps moisture out better - and this is AFTER doing the rust treatment.
So I've now used several phosphoric acid products.
SEM Rust Mort or Rust Shield is too expensive - whereas I can order a gallon of 80% which is twice the concentration - for the same price as a pint of Rust Mort at half the concentration. So ordering it for shipping rather than local is literally a quarter of the price or less.
OK so then the cheapest version locally is the concrete and metal etching as Kleen Strip - so I found this today. Someone said they put it in a gallon sprayer jug - so I got one of those and I sprayed the Kleen Strip. It's about 35% phosphoric acid - and so it's basically like strong vinegar. So then I drove around for about an hour to dry it off.
So then I returned back to the garage - hopefully it hasn't dripped too much.
Tomorrow I will check with the inspection camera.
We had Record Abrupt Global Warming Heat today. So I took advantage of the heat.
But then my previous JB Weld fix to the tailgate did not hold.
I’d first check around the area that small rust spot is and see if the paint has begun to lift or if the rust has started to creep under the paint. You MUST completely remove or treat the rust to successfully correct the issue. The tiny rust spot you see may be just the tip of the iceberg and it could creep ad hide under the paint. If there seems to be loose paint around a rust spot this means the rust is creeping under the paint and you need to remove the paint in that area until you get to clean metal. Otherwise the rust will continue to spread under the paint even if you do treat just the obvious spots.
So I got a huge "5x" size of the Old Original JB Weld - that I had used before. So I have MORE of it and since it's twenty degrees warmer then it will cure faster and hopefully harder. This time I then sanded the area first with the metal brush well on the drill. And I used acetone to clean off any loose paint dust. So it was roughed up a bit to hold the JB Weld better - as the directions state to do.
I don't know - it appears to be holding so now we have to let it set.
But then I'll probably need more of the stuff. Because I didn't remove the old JB Weld - and the metal sections didn't line up as well on the tailgate - they are uneven and stick out.
So I also used this Rustoleum Gel Spray - it's a gel or thick spray so it doesn't run down as much. But it also doesn't seem very strong in converting the rust. But then it was colder yesterday which slows down the reaction.
So it did make the black iron phosphate conversion a bit - on the bottom of part of the frame rail. The ONLY rust I had on the bottom of the frame was from where the local mechanics had lifted up the car - and so I didn't paint over where they had lifted the car. So the frame rusted as the paint had wore off from the truck frame lifted up.
But then I did find a new spot that I must have missed treating last year - as a big chunk of rust came off - the INSIDE of the truck frame chassis. It did not put a hole in the frame but the frame is thin on that part.
That must surely weaken the frame quite a bit ? or is the part of the flake wax and shit from the road ?
Sébastien Cilia- They are usually built with a margin of safety. Still, it is good to stop the rust as soon as possible .
These vehicles are rated to tow over 5,000 lb because that's what they were created to do
GM advertises "high strength steel" in it's frames, I don't know what that is but, we had a Chevy 4x4 track truck(MX track) that had a frame that looked like Swiss cheese. I did everything to break that thing in half and it just wouldn't die.
Just saying, that looks can be, just that, "looks", these trucks structurally tend to be over built IMHO....Mike.
So the issue here is HOW much "rust creep" do I have under the paint on the actual truck chassis frame - and considering that the frame is "over built" and "with a margin of safety" - then will the frame hold up for another four years?
That's my plan is to try keep the car running for another four years. The frame feels solid still - and so we'll see what the inspection camera shows tomorrow.
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