So technically as I said, for my area, a "permanent structure" does NOT need a floor - only walls and a roof - for longer than six months and to be used continuously. https://www.chrismendlascorner.com/2019/08/08/harbor-freight-10-x-17-portable-garage-tent/
Same situation for that person:
I could either take it down and would be given a reasonable time to do that or I could file a permit. I chose the latter.
So the issue is not so much whether I can get a permit (that's precisely the goal - to do a jujitsu taichi move and get a street residential address from a garage permit) or not; but rather to actually make the structure last for a continuous long term amount of time. We get a ton of snow - for example - and lots of water, etc. This was the situation that another person found themselves in because they lived in an area requiring a "building permit" with code inspection:
Unfortunately even a shed or carport requires a building permit including an engineers stamp to show it can handle 120 lb psf snow load.
Same with this person:
https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/manitoba/winnipeg-temporary-tents-city-bylaws-1.3961802
the primary issue with tubular canvas tents with metal frames is they aren't designed for long-term use nor to withstand the amount of snow Winnipeg gets in winter. Strong winds are a concern, the spokesperson said, as are the canvas materials tents are often made of, as they tend to deteriorate over time outside in the elements.
City bylaws state any temporary tent bigger than about 84 square metres requires a permit. Turenne's tent is only about 22 square metres, but because she has been using it continuously for four years, the city considers the structure permanent and says it must comply with bylaws.
"If intended to be used permanently, the Winnipeg Building Bylaw requires a permanent foundation, and a permit for the foundation and the structure would be required," a city spokesperson said in a statement.
What "garage in a box" am I referring to? I got the cheap Harbor Freight "garage in a box." It obviously is NOT supposed to handle snow load but it can be modified to do so - as the below video shows in detail.
So I used a similar coupon to this. The total was about $185 with tax.
So then some people do take the "tent" down during the winter - and thus it truly is a tent and "portable" or "temporary." So people leave it up continuously but it only lasts a year or even less (or maybe two years - if lucky three or four).
I live in Anchorage and I have had my tempory garage about 7 years. Every time there is a big snow I go inside the garage with a push broom and push the top up and down until the snow falls off.
If you get a big tarp and keep replacing it then you might get ten years - but the person claiming that was possible - even THEY changed their "garage in a box" to a permanent structure.
Shelter Logic Tent Conversion vid
So the person made a great vid on how to do this.
I asked a clarification and he responded.
Highlighted reply
https://usermanual.wiki/Document/63055.1293173636
I really struggled with the annoying tie down ratchets, but you demonstrated the correct way to feed the strap through. FYI for others, the instruction are WRONG--do it the way this guy does it!
That comment is from a vid where the person makes sure to extend the ratchet first and then put the strap through (contrary to the instructions). So that's for the Portable Garage or "Garage in a Box" - I prefer the last description. 53 vids so far in the "Garage in a Box" playlist
do not screw the two ends until you have installed the door and your back the rest can be screwed together all at once
If you do get the slip together one I would recommend using self tapping metal screws to hold things together.
Obviously hardly anyone "moves" the garage unless the wind moves it! So that is the first main concern. How to properly attach the structure to the Earth.
https://www.instructables.com/Replace-Canvas-Roof-with-Corrugated-Steel/
I actually should attach the "Furring Strips" or "wall strapping" (acting as purlins) using the
rather than drilling or putting a screw into the pipe directly.
The straps are cut to the required length from a roll of perforated pipe strapping and attached with heavy duty wood screws.
So then people say to put metal for the roof. But I don't like the loud noise of rain on metal - it would scare the birds if they are trying to sleep. Another recommendation is plywood boards. This, of course, would be very heavy to install alone - on a roof. No I much prefer my poly-cotton canvas tarp blend. So I can put that over the purlins and the roof - so it is supported against snow.
Then he also built a couple trusses out of 2 x 4s. Some people just use tension ratchet straps for compression - to keep the walls from pushing out under the snow. So I probably would just use the ratchet straps - especially if I just have a tarp over the top. On my tent-hut I use three tarps because I have insulation. And with just one tarp on top then the snow or rain accumulated - the rain caused the tarp to sag (even though I have purlins). So I guess I didn't make enough purilns. haha.
So I should definitely make enough purlins.
Lay 3 rows [each side] of 2X4 stringers down the length of the roof, evenly spaced.
Rebuilt using the frames and adding 2by studs between the metal, giving a 2ft spacing.
So that is the rafters. I will have to add to those also. So then those would be the "trusses" to give it stronger stability - with a horizontal support.
60 mph winds last spring that tore the anchor cables in two and flipped the shed over the fence.
So those "anchor cables" are not strong enough.
people add MORE anchor cables and attach to posts in concrete. That is probably what I'll have to do.
its also better to use steel fence posts and drive them down about 4 feet at each corner drill a hole thru the post using the cables that comes with the kit and attach it thru the hole and thru the holes in the corner posts and tighten them as tight as you can. Then tamp the post until the cable is tight. This will help it last alot longer. the auger style ground retainers are OK, but is almost impossible to use in rocky ground.
something like that. The vids have more examples.
So in this vid he uses 3/8 inch "wedge anchors"
to go right into a slab foundation.
I'm not so keen on leveling, squaring and plumbing. So I'm definitely not doing a slab foundation.
I said I would be doing a PRIMITIVE garage structure. So just as with my tent-hut, then I may just use onsite timber - for the furlins and trusses - and those will be under the tarp. And then for the walls probably use OSB just because this structure will be kind of visible. So I would go full on primitive walls. haha.
And then sink wooden posts way down - four to five feet down. And then screw into those or figure out a better connection to the posts rather then an eye hook and anchor cable. Still that's probably what I would do. I think another vid gives a similar example.
Do it 12 In. 5/16 Dia. Hot Galvanized Spiral Landscape Spikes (12 Ct., 3 Lb.)
Wow - it's rare to find a low count number of these. So I could drive these into a wood post foundation. Just as I did with the tent-hut but only go farther down to about five feet or six feet down for a wood post. The only problem is if the wood would split.
Maybe I should use those wedge anchor things.
In areas where the ground freezes please go 6 inches below your frost line with the concrete pour.
So instead of into a slab - I would go into a concrete post.
Oh but I can't have it "elevated." hmm.
cool - this person does a 5 gallon bucket concrete foundation for his "garage in a box" - vid
`
No comments:
Post a Comment