"If it's leaking it's really slowed down...."So I had some drips yesterday on my third test drive but when I used a cloth to check around for the source - there didn't seem to be much fluid leaking at all. So I think it was just "residual" fluid left from the leak that is now fixed. So I wiped it all down as much as possible.
Then when reading another forum - on the possibility of the leak being the differential casing - since I was still not sure if that might be a leak....I read the below:
So then last night I sprayed brake cleaner as much as I could handle - since I was under the car and the fumes were strong. And then I drove for about a half hour - and turned a bit. Then I parked back in the garage and put brown paper under the car where it had leaked previously.The drip seems to be coming from the bolts that hold the differential together along the seam. No noise while turning or anything noticeable. The amount leaking is not a substantial amount (few drops)....some turn out to be the diff case, which it seems you are concerned about.d my case was leaking. I did a temporary fix 4 months ago, it's still holding. First, verify the vent/vent hose on top of the diff isn't clogged.Then, clean the crap all off the case, where the two halfs join. Use brake clean, I did. Couple cans. Make sure it sparkles. Then, apply a small amount of vacuum to the nipple at the top of the diff where the vent attaches, smear the best RTV gasket sealer all along the case where they bolt together, as best you can, the back part was the hardest to access, allow it to dry a few hours, fill the diff, hope for the best or be ready for an expensive repair. I didn't put the diff in a vacuum like I recommended, but it will help to wick the RTV into the case seam.Short version, my leak turned out to be the case, where they join, on the back side about halfway up. PITA to get to and *try* to seal, but so far so good.
Then as I read more reviews of Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak - so just as I suspected - people say that if you have too much mineral oil then it will damage the power steering pump. So I looked up a vid on precisely how a power steering pump works and turns out it is a very sensitive device. I had asked about this in the auto parts store and the worker there said no it was not a problem and just add more Lucas (as I bought more of it). So then someone wrote that Lucas says if you keep at 50/50 ratio of the Lucas mineral oil to the power steering fluid - then you have a Permanent Fix.
So then I checked how much this car holds - and I guess it's around two quarts. So then I had put in over two and a half bottles of twelve ounce mineral oil - one brand was not Lucas but STP stop leak - also mineral oil. So that was about one quart - 32 ounces is a quart. So 36 ounces (3 at 12 ounce bottles)? I put in less than 36 but not much less.
So last night I took out the mineral oil mix in the reservoir - about 12 ounces - and I replaced it with "normal" power steering fluid....
And I had noticed a whine a bit during last night's drive - but I did not notice it this morning. So I think the power steering pump is working better now with less mineral oil. But there should be enough mineral oil in there for a permanent fix I think - to keep the rubber seals swelled up.
So this morning there were NO DRIPS on the brown paper...!!!
So that's the third time I've had no drips after a test drive....
So now we'll see what the mechanic says - and if he freaks out about me using the "Right Stuff" Permatex rubber gasket sealant spray around the CV axle differential seal area. haha.
When I told him I liked his website - and he was friendly and then he asked:
Did you clean it?
So luckily I had read that forum thread last night that inspired me to use the brake parts cleaner and I could answer - yes.
He said he would look at it.
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