Marvel Mystery Oil History: Founded in 1923 by Burt Pierce, the brand has remained legendary for over 90 years. Pierce’s reputation for ingenuity preceded him as he was already well-known for inventing the Marvel Carburetor, standard equipment on 80% of all vehicles produced after World War I. Vehicles of the post WWI era encountered carburetor problems, the most perplexing being clogged jets due to high lead content and other contaminants found in the gasoline of the time. The problem motivated Pierce to direct his creative ingenuity towards formulating a blend of chemicals and petroleum products to clean and maintain clogged jets. He was successful beyond his wildest expectations and the legend of MMO was born. Marvel Mystery Oil proved to have other beneficial effects on the engine. By creating a top ring seal, it produced higher compression and by preventing blow-by on power strokes, it resulted in more power. Marvel Mystery Oil also improved gas mileage and minimized engine wear.
Marvel Mystery Oil was originally a motor oil for World War radial aircraft engines where the crankshaft was bolted to the aircraft and the engine and propeller spun independently of the crankshaft, as the crankshaft was stationary.
MMO is 60% minimum "mineral oil" aka petroleum jelly as a lubricant and 30% minimum solvent as mineral spirits. A lot of people are confused about the "naphtha" as the main ingredient. That part is not naphtha as kerosene solvent but actually a different type of naphtha that is mineral oil as lubricant....
As a random test I tried the mystery oil, it some how stopped all the knocking noise. I don't sponsor them, I also tried Lucas oil but mystery fixed the issue.
Used mineral-based crankcase oil is the brown-to-black, oily liquid removed from the engine of a motor vehicle when the oil is changed. It is similar to unused oil except it contains additional chemicals from its use as an engine lubricant.
Synthetic lubricants can be cost-effective alternatives to traditional mineral oils in off-highway engine applications if the performance benefits outweigh the higher lubricant cost.Solving Lifter Tick with MMO - in 3 parts - vid series
I have run it in my oil and it fixed a timing chain tensioner for me. MMO is has high lubricity and high detergent properties...I suspect that the MMO broke down some dirt or built up sludge in the tensioner. I just used a smaller than called for amount, about four ounces, directly poured in the crankcase. I've never used it in the crankcase at the recommended ratio. Just seems like too much but I'm gonna try it on my next oil change. I do use it in the gas tank every time I fill up.
Used marvel mystery oil all my life for various chores - I recently bought a John deer 855 series tractor with a Yanmar diesel. It had a stuck ring and was smoking - I put about 1/2 30 wt and 1/2 marvel mystery oil - then mowed the 2 acre yard and worked the engine - changed the oil and filter and repeated the process - mowing my yard takes about 3.5 hours - after the second dose I changed the oil and filter again and put the required oil - that was 4 years ago and the tractor uses NO OIL . You have to work the engine to get the mmo behind the stuck ring to get it loose - might take several hours...
The #1 cause of premature engine failure was using the various "snake oil" engine oil flushes! That stuff attacks and breaks down the oil, when you drain the oil you do not remove all of it from the engine! It is still laying in the lifter passages, cylinder head bosses, the nooks and crannies in the bottom of the oil pan and places you would not think about. You put the new oil in and guess what? That "snake oil" reactivates and starts to immediately attack that new oil breaking it down leading to it being useless by as little as 1,500 miles. We did put "snake oil" into an engine once for testing purposes, it took 6 oil changes to finally remove any traces of that "snake oil" from the engine oil samples. If sludge is a problem, fix the PCV, pop off the valve covers and oil pan clean them out, remove the oil pick up tube and replace it, bolt it all back together and go. Not all sludge is bad sludge.
People who have not used this often think it is 'Snake Oil', but those who have used it consider it to be a 'Marvel'. It really does work well. This product will efficiently clean an engine of crud, free up stick lifters, and is very effective in removing accumulations of gunk prior to oil change.
This can also be added to oil prior to winter as it does thin the oil to a degree, making it easier to turn over and start. I would NOT recommend this in cars which have a leaking seal, because it does thin the oil it will likely make it leak more.
MMO is about a 5 wt oil. It will reduce the high end number of a multi-vis oil by 4 wt points. The low end number will stay the same when used as per directions.
However running thin mineral oil and solvents as a permanent oil additive is not very helpful.
This [Marvel Mystery Oil] stuff is cheap and it is good at dissolving carbon deposits. What is in it? [60% minimum is this type of Naphtha as actually Mineral Oil or Paraffin wax as oil - petroleum jelly;] and 30% minimum is stoddard solvent [mineral spirits]. <1% of it is ortho-dichlorobenzene. Though the dichlorobenzene is a very good carbon/sludge dissolver, [ It is also found in deodorant blocks made for trash cans and toilets and used as a solvent mediator in silicone rubber gasket seals to decrease the attraction between polymer chains to make them more flexible.] they don't use very much of it because it is expensive and the chlorine atoms make hydrochloric acid in your engine. This in itself isn't an issue because all API approved motor oils contain a high amount of calcium-based detergents which neutralize the acid. It will shorten the lifespan of your oil though.
Heavy crude oil dilutionNaphtha is used to dilute heavy crude oil to reduce its viscosity and enable/facilitate transport;
It thins out your oil a little bit. A whole quart of it will thin your oil a whole grade (5W30 becomes 5W20).
It is a Chlorinated paraffin base stock if I recall properly. Normally "Chlorinated" and oil additives are scary. That said i have never seen any issues with MMO at all even with as much as 1 quart substituted for one quart of motor oil. Since it does tend to burn off rather quickly you need to keep an eye on oil level and top off with oil as it burns off if you have sub'ed a quart of oil out.
You probably don't want to put it in a truck while you plan to do some heavy towing with it. And if you have a lot of sludge use it with caution. You don't want to use too much too fast and get chunks of sludge floating around in the oil lodging into worse places than it was before. Don't get it on your hands because it will absorb in your skin.
I added some to the crankcase of an old Dodge pickup in storage at another state. The engine would run, but not pull a load. I suspected lifter problems after troubleshooting the ignition system. After 20 minutes at a high idle, the truck ran like a top. The solvent will eventually burn off leaving only the engine oil. Normally, I don’t use it, but i always have some on hand for those times of need.
I’ve also had a friend use it in an IO-520 with a noisy lifter. Cured the issue.
the only thing that is negative about the new fuels is that when it sets for any extended period the fuel turns into a varnishy tar and will ruin an engine, be it a new car or older car. These fuels also cause a buildup of varnish over time in critical engine components. Effects of ethanol content on cast iron cylinder wear in a flex-fuel internal combustion engine–A case study
I think the MMO is designed to cut the sludge and deposits from the engine. I had a 1972 Nova in HS and drove it to school one morning and poured the MMO in the motor in while it was hot and I could hear the lifters quietening as I poured it. That was enough to make a lifetime believer out of me!
The test with ethanol resulted in the highest localized wear, which occurred at the Bottom-Dead-Center position. A condensed literature review was conducted. An attempt was made to correlate the observed wear features with possible mechanistic theories found in the wear literature. Characterization results indicated that three-body abrasion by carbon residues and piston ring particles is one of the important mechanisms contributing to the cylinder bore wear.
Ta Da, Marvel Mystery Oil to the rescue! This fine mysterious liquid was once made by the Marvel Oil company and was invented by it's owner. Because of it's amazing ability to lubricate an engine and fuel system it is still being produced.
Add Marvel Mystery Oil to every tank full. You only need add about four ounces to every ten gallons. You will notice your engine running smoother. Some say that it will increase the power of your engine. I don't agree with that. I think what really happens is that the Mystery Oil causes the engine to run so much smoother that it feels like you have more power. It only restores the engine to the power it is suppose to have.
This MMO additive works really well to remove gum deposits that cause drag inside your engine. The website says to use 10-25% and I remember on the metal cans to use 4-oz per quart. If you run a pint in your engine all the time and dose your gas tank, your car will perform better and never have dirty injectors. Marvels works better if it can soak on the deposits, this is why you should leave it in a long time and not use it as a quick flush product.
I have driven cross-country adding MMO to my gas and believe it polished the sides of the engine. It was a Volvo engine. Rings grooves have a fine structure of drain holes which are extremely vulnerable to dirt. Varnish is a natural product of the gasoline. And it bakes on. MMO and other products dissolve these deposits. When once you free up gummy rings and stop an oil burner, then you know.
if you use Marvel Mystery Oil instead of the harsh chemical flushes, you will still get the same benefits of a clean engine but you won't get the seal leaks that you would from a harsh chemical flush. MMO is much more gentle and is meant to be run for the last 300 miles before you do your oil change. MMO has seal conditioners/replenishers added to the formula so while it's cleaning up your engine, it's also cleaning up your seals. Since you've already done engine flushes, if you switch to Marvel Mystery Oil you will only need to use a half a bottle of the MMO added to your oil 300 miles before your oil change. A 32 oz bottle of MMO goes for $3.88 at Walmart. So using half a bottle 300 miles before an oil change will cost you $1.94 per flush and no more shrinking oil seals. lf you are not in the U.S. then just use high grade diesel fuel to do the flush, just stay away from cheap "engine flush" products, they are too harsh on seals and gaskets.
MMO is a dual-all lubricant...and it lubricates your entire fuel system and also saturates gaskets. So a lot of the times people wonder why their gaskets crack. And that's because the gasket material gets hard and when the expansion and contraction of your motor, it actually pinches the gasket in between. And if there's no lubricant between the gasket and the aluminum you can actually crack your gasket. So this will allow your gasket to last longer - you only put in about four ounces for an 18 gallon tank - just four ounces makes a huge difference!
I've actually tried putting the whole bottle in and you have too much oil - where you actually lose power. With this Marvel - it's so thin - that basically that all you're doing is putting that teeny film on all the internal components and that allows it to operate smoother and that keeps you protected. So this is a great additive to use all the time. I think 4 ounces ever fill up is great - or every other fill up. I think basically as long as you put that small film of oil and everything you're good. If you add more you're only lowering the octane of your fuel. I think the sweet spot is exactly 4 oz per 10 gallons Best Fuel Additives - Marvel Mystery Oil & AMSOIL Pi Fuel Additive
Marvel Mystery Oil vaporizers inside the engine and inside the combustion chamber and it disperses in the air. It puts a coating everywhere and stops rusting and puts a film on everything. I changed the head gasket on my old Jeep and found residue of Marvel Mystery Oil everywhere in a very very thin film. Basically it disperses if you'd like to do a test try putting a drop of Marvel Mystery Oil on cardboard. I have to say that's probably one of the best things you can put in your fuel as a maintainer.
The 'new gas' is cleaner, but has less lubricating properties for the top end of the engine (valve guides, valve stems, etc) which WILL make problems down the road. Use a good top lube, the engines stay alive for a lot longer. They'll still wear out if you flog the snot of them but the top end jobs will happen at a longer interval, until you start respecting the limitations (and joy) of really old technology.
Let me tell you my little story about my 2001 Ford F-150 supercab 5.4L Triton motor with 235,000 miles on it. This truck has been meticulously cared for it's whole life and looks brand new. It had developed this valve ticking on startup that would last about 10 minutes. I run only Mobil 1 synthetic oil at 5K change intervals. So I start the truck to warm up the oil and the ticking was loud and obvious. It was still there when I shut the truck down to drain a quart of oil. I put a quart of MMO in and then started the truck back up. The ticking was gone. It's been a month since I put MMO in my oil and I haven't heard the valve ticking since. Now, I'm no chemist or engineer and can't tell you what this stuff is doing internally other than it solved my problem and is hopefully cleaning the internals of this high mileage motor. Here's to another 100K miles:)
I have two older vehicles that developed engine lifter noise. My local garage recommended trying Marvel Mystery Oil. Within a few minutes of driving time after adding 1/2 quart of Marvel Mystery Oil to the motor oil, the lifter noise was history.
I bought a 2005 Kia Sedona that had been sitting for a long time. Once I changed the timing belt and fired it up I heard some realy loud tapping coming from the top of the engine. I quadruple checked my timing marks and they were fine so before I condemed the engine I tried this stuff. It started to quite down the tapping within minutes. After letting it warm up a few times now the tapping is completely gone! I love this stuff!
I prefer Marvel over Engine Flush as it is gentler and I dont have to worry about too much sludge being released at once possibly clogging up the oil return passages. In addition you can drive with Marvel in the Crank Case.
because of a bad seal on the valve cover.
So despite this engine being "all the rage" now for retrofit engine swaps - drag racing and hot rods - there's a serious problem. One I'm going to attempt to fix as preventative maintenance? Is it too late? I don't know.MMO was developed under contract to GM in the 1920's.
It seems that GM was tired of bad fuels leaving varnish deposits in the carbs, and then the cars being blamed for it. They wanted something that could be added to the fuel to keep the varnish from building up, and it had to burn 'smoke free'. MMO was born.
Later on they found out that MMO had a great side effect; it was very good as an upper cylinder lubricant too. Much later they started recommending that you use it in your engine oil...but its unclear why.
For simplicity, let’s assume the antioxidant concentration of new oil is 100. At the time of the SVOC, the used oil had an antioxidant level of 25. The 40-percent SVOC [short volume oil change] resulted in a blended antioxidant concentration of 55, or 55 percent RUL of the blended oil. This equates to just more than half of the new oil’s designed service life.
I replaced that racing gas with normal gas and I then a few oz of MMO in the tank and to my amazement instant fix! The gas turn off ( petcock) not only now worked but was smooth as silk unlike even when new as the MMO lubricated the rubber parts! After a few miles my valves re-seated and now 21 years later my Harley runs better than new with nothing but regular oil changes and MMO in the gas for 21 years!
70% pale oil [mineral oil lubricant], 29% mineral spirits (less harmful than gasoline, mild solvent, used to safely clean engine parts, non corrosive, will not harm rubber or O'rings, used for shoe and furniture polish, and even used to lubricate screw threads when cutting), and about 1% solvents so IT WILL NOT HURT YOUR ENGINE.
[Stoddard solvent is a type of mineral spirits. Mineral spirits (U.S.) or white spirits (U.K.), also known as mineral turpentine,] Notice the smell? They add Wintergreen oil so it smells good.
Petroleum Distillates (Stoddard Solvent) also known as white spirit, 10-30% Tricresyl phosphate, an antiwear and extreme pressure additive in lubricants 0.1-1.0% Ortho Dichlorobenzene, a softening and removing agent for carbon-based contamination on metal surfaces, 0.1-1.0%
My mother's Ford Galaxy 500 developed noisy valves and rough idle. My mom was worried something major was wrong with the engine. I took it to the dealership for her but the head mechanic (we called them "mechanics" back in the 60's, not "technicians") told me to buy a bottle of MMO and give it a try. He said he could repair the engine but it would be costly and he thought MMO would do the same thing for a couple of bucks. I did as he said and the engine smoothed out and quieted down almost immediately. I've been a believer ever since.
These engines were notorious for carbon buildup and clogged injectors. Decarb services and injector cleanings are routine maintenance and can be done without taking everything apart...
MMO is the cat's ass for fixing collapsed hydraulic lifters in the Vanagon engines. Throw a few ounces in, drive it for a 100 km or so, then do an oil change and it seems to clean the crap out and get the lifters quiet again.
Trying to use MMO for top end noise like you're experiencing only works with hydraulic lifters.
MMO recommends 4 oz. per 10 gallons of gas. That treat rate is very mild, for frequent use, say once every 3,000 miles. A more aggressive treatment is about 1 oz. per gallon, best used at highway speeds. One whole bottle (32 oz.) per tank is quite strong (1.6 oz. per gallon) and will likely leave a bit of black residue in the exhaust pipes (no harm, but will require some acetone in the gas to further clean your system).
Noticed improved fuel economy due to this regular addition 2 oz. per 10 gallons of fuel. No negative effect on catalytic converter observed.
So there is this Decarbonizing Machine service - video
Each cylinder head on your car’s engine has an aluminum or plastic valve cover bolted to it. Between this valve cover and the cylinder head, there is a gasket that keeps engine oil from leaking out. The valve cover bolts keep the gasket compressed, thus preventing leaks. Over time the gasket becomes brittle from the engine’s heat or the bolts loosen, creating an engine oil leak.
up to 20% of used oil/solvent can remain in the engine, that is enough to shear the oil and damage bearings. Always perform a a second oil change.I guess some dealers offer this.
Cleaning the cover, intake manifold, installing the gasket and reassembly were fairly strait forward after having learned the problems in the removal process. vid
Had a ticking lifter. MMO made it stop. My only experience with it.
But then there's the Old Skool approach. With these new engines (vortec 4200 inline six) overview you have to be very careful.
The 4.2-liter Atlas LL8, otherwise called the Vortec 4200, was a groundbreaking engine for GM. It featured an all-aluminum construction, dual overhead cams with variable valve timing on the exhaust side, four valves per cylinder, a coil-on-plug ignition system, a high compression ratio of 10:1, and its cylinder heads featured GM’s then-prevalent “Vortec” engineering designed to maximize airflow.
This combination allowed for the production of 1.06 horsepower per cubic inch – a total of 270 horsepower at 6,000 rpm. Torque was rated at 275 pound-feet at 3,600 rpm, but 90 percent of peak torque was available between 1,600 and 5,600 rpm. These stats far exceeded every comparable V-6 on the market at the time, including GM’s own 4.3-liter Vortec V-6.
The engine runs noticeably better with MMO added to the gas at a 4 oz per 10 gallon ratio. Everything seems to be smoother, especially on those extremely cold winter mornings.
So the decarbonizing machine produces hydrogen to burn through the carbon - a plasma? (vid of cleaning valve)
Oh it's HHO and some say NEVER to do it. (vid)
I did a search and noticed there are some members on this forum who have had problems using this stuff. So, dunno. I believe Seafoam is meant more for older cars without catalytic converters and oxygen sensors. Also I just changed my O2 sensor. Not very confident that putting a light oil into my cylinders wouldn't affect it. I would stick with either RedLine or Techron Concentrate which have carbon dissolving detergents to clean the valves, fuel injectors and piston chambers.So I was gonna try the CRC Fuel System Cleaner... but then I got this warning as part of promotional for MMO - Marvel Mystery Oil (naphtha as mineral oil with some "insectide" carbon conditioner and mineral spirits as solvent)
heavy detergents will start to eat away at seals, engine overheats and dies, company gets sued for blowing your motor.
MMO has seal/gasket conditioners in it. Couldn't even tell you how many times ive seen people that had drippy oil leaks from old gaskets that gave MMO a try (they were doing it to clean the engine not even thinking about the gaskets) and low and behold after an application or two of MMO, all the leaks that were related to old, shrunken gaskets went away. The opposite can happen if you use a harsh detergent based "engine flush" that has caustic agents in it (similar to oven cleaner), those "engine flushes" can and most definitely do attack both seals and gaskets. When this happens the people erroneously think that the reason they suddenly got leaks after using an engine flush is because the built up gunk was prevent the leaks, but the reality is that it was the harsh detergents and caustic agents in the engine flush garbage that ate up the already old seals and gaskets. That's why those products all say "Do not drive the car or even rev the engine once the harsh flush fluid is added to the oil or engine damage can occur" ... uhhh yeah, that's because those engine flush formulas are so harsh that they destroy the protective components in the oil. For all those reasons i never recommend "engine flush" to people but always recommend MMO which is so gentle that you can drive with it in your oil and not only will it gently clean out your engine it will also condition your seals while it's cleaning!Later on the same person adds:
in over 30 years of using MMO on countless vehicles, i've never experienced a leak from it. The thing to keep in mind is that unlike most "engine flushes" MMO does not contain harsh detergents so it doesn't attack seals and gaskets like detergent based "engine flushes" do. Also MMO contains seal conditioners. i've actually seen many times cars with leaky seals stop leaking after several treatments of MMO, because the MMO restored the flexibility of the seals that had shrunk up with age. A lot of people have made the assumption that after using an "engine flush" and seeing leaks start that the gunk that was cleaned out is what was preventing the leaks, when that really isn't the case, but rather, the harsh detergents and and in some cases caustic chemicals that are added to some "engine flushes" (similar to what's in oven cleaner) actually eat away at the seals/gaskets that are already old and dried out causing instant leaks right after the flush. That's also why if you read the instructions on most harsh engine flush products, they specifically warn to NOT drive or even rev the engine once the flush is added to the oil because damage can occur. That tells you exactly how harsh the are. That's what causes the leaks and that's precisely why i never recommend "engine flush" type products. MMO is so gentle and specific in its action that they actually recommend that you add it to your oil and drive for 300 miles or so before you get your oil changed. By doing that you will also actually be conditioning your seals, allowing them to soften up and expand and help prevent any seal leaks. Only other thing that's as safe to use as MMO for cleaning engines is diesel fuel (won't damage seals/gaskets), but no harsh flush products.Ok.... so I think I'll stick with the MMO.... but just add a smaller amount - half dose - so as not to clog the injectors....
I poured some MMO in the crankcase. The valve
sticking was cured, but the engine began smoking fairly heavily after a week
or so. I took the head off and found the rubber seals on the valve stems had
hardened and had lost their sealing ability. Coincidence? Who knows, but I
won't leave the MMO in the engine for long periods anymore.
the A&P Mechanic at my local airport puts 1/2 a quart in at every oil change on his Ford car and gasoline truck and then tops off the engine with it during the OCI. So to be clear he is over filling the crankcase by 1/2 a quart on his 4 cylinder and his V8 with MMO. He has been doing this according to him for about 20 years on everything he and his wife has ever owned and never a problem.
So better to not use this stuff for "turtle driving" - but instead for a 300 mile interstate Italian tune-up Drive! This will be perfect to do right before an oil change - on the way up or going back from northern Minnesota.
Just google "MMO soak" and you will see that over on the saturn forums we do it all of the time to loosen up sticky rings in the 1.9 SOHC/DOHC Saturn "oil burner" engines.
I have used it mixed in the gas. One small bottle [8 oz] per tank [16 gallons] of gas. Works decent.
I've used Marvel Mystery Oil for many years. I add it to both the crankcase and the gas tank. In the gas tank, I add 4 oz. of Marvel per 10 gallons of gas. I can't say there's a noticeable change in performance, but certainly it has not hurt anything. For me it's more a sense that it helps alleviate gum and sludge deposits. Also, since I live in Florida, I can't speak on how it helps with cold weather starts.
Been using mmo for years. It cleans carbon off valves, cleans Pistons and quiets lifters.It also cleans sludge and helps loosen stuck fasteners. It also smells good.
Today, every mechanic I talk to is shocked that I have the original engine and transmission with 354,000 miles! But, they all agree that the Mystery Oil story is the reason behind it.
Valves leaking seal - MMO treatment
vid
There is also the argument of how long it takes for transmission fluid to permeate engine oil seals. Once in the seal, no amount of time, or lack there of, will help you reverse what you did. This is what made it so effective in reviving old seals.....lol. I'm not saying your engine is destroyed within minutes. All I'm saying is be aware of the affect of transmission fluid on your engine seals and if you're going to advise people to do this, make them aware of what transmission fluid can do to their seals. people watch these vids and think "Omg, I would never put that in my engine". But what most people aren't aware of is these same compounds ( cleaners) are in retail oil and transmission fluid also. Companies advertise they put detergents in oil and transmission fluid. Just in smaller quantities. So if you know what you're doing and know what affect a chemical will have on engine parts, you can better judge what to put in your engine or transmission. Most of the time it comes down to quantity. How much of anything your adding. And of course how long you keep it in there. I had this same argument with another youtube poster and he flat out refused to admit what I was saying is a fact. So if you're gonna do it, be careful about it and use common sense....
I purchased an older car that had a ticking - maybe a slight valve sticking problem. I put a small amount of Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas tank and also replaced half a quart of oil while changing oil. One day while on the expressway I changed lanes and all of a sudden this other car changed lanes too. In an effort to get out of the way I floored it. I looked in the rearview mirror and their was this cloud of smoke behind me. I mean huge dark cloud as I raced away. It was amazing, at first a litle scary then I realized my engine needed this. A good blowout. My motor is so quiet and idles so smooth that I hear the cars engine next to me in traffic but not mine. I actually thought on one occasion the engine had stopped but i blipped the gas and yes it was running. I will continue to use this product for the life of my car.So 16 ounces is a pint - in the US - and so 3 ounces per tank - so 8 tanks full of gas = 1 bottle of MMO at $6.
I can add then HALF a pint to the oil crankcase at one trip before an oil change - from up north.
But I did do a mmo cleaning using a whole quart and did short oil change interval a few times and my old 2002 elantra with 175k was smooth and quiet after that
Used it in several vehicles. Big difference in my indestructible 1994 Escort with 200k miles. It idles and runs more smooth and quiet, throttle response (RPM changes) are noticably less sluggish.
I used this MMO with a new oil change, repeated after a few hundred miles, and have not had the noise return over the last year. I'm convinced this product dissolved the remaining sludge causing the tapping sounds.
Make sure to follow the directions and ADD TO FUEL TANK PRIOR TO FUELING! This is the key as it helps to effectively mix it into the fuel as opposed to just sitting there.wow - finally I found the answer to that question...
This is great stuff. Stopped the ticking noise the lifters were making in my 2009 Trailblazer SS with 156K miles on it.
I had a lifter that was tapping like mad on engine start up. No more. Best results come from topping off your oil about 500 miles before changing the old oil with about a half quart of the MM. Just make sure your not overfilling the sump when doing this. Then, at the next oil change, add in the other half quart you have left along with your regular oil. The lifter tapping went away. Now the valve train is so quiet, I can hear the need for a valve lash adjustment.
Because my oil level was near the full mark and didn't want to overfill it, i added about six ounces of MMO into the crankcase (recommended amount is 32 oz). The difference in power my car had was felt immediately. The throttle response improved as well. I can best describe it when you drive on a cool day, because your car is breathing in denser cooler air, your car produces more power. This is how my car felt and it was 85 degrees outside. I also notice much less black carbon deposits on the end of my magnaflow muffler. I only added six ounces because i was due for an oil change about a month later.https://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/media/1256/marvel-mystery-oil.pdf Oh wait - you're correct! Naphtha is MADE from what's in MMO
"Petroleum naphtha is an intermediate hydrocarbon liquid stream derived from the refining of crude oil[1][2][3] with CAS-no 64742-48-9.[4]"
and CAS-no 64742-48-9 is what is in MMO: https://www.chemicalbook.com/ChemicalProductProperty_EN_CB6505512.htm - wow it's actually Isoparafiin. Amazing.
"Naphtha (petroleum), hydrotreated heavy". European Chemicals Agency.
.. Liquid paraffin (called mineral oil in the US) is a more viscous and highly refined product which is used as a laxative.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liquid_paraffin_(drug)
But the MMO would help dissolve at least some of the deposits. I have personally soaked valve springs in MMO and it helped break those deposits free, which ended up saving the customers a lot of money. MMO isn't perfect but can it help keep oil cake from ever forming in your engine or can MMO help clean everything that the fuel touches? From what I have seen, yes.
Mineral oils are hidden in the list of ingredients under the following names: mineral oil, petroleum jelly, paraffinum liquidum, paraffinum subliquidum, cera microcristallina, microcrystalline wax, ozokerite, ceresin, or Vaseline.
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