I've had great luck with the Eastwood long term. Also one tip to the little plastic straw is to tape a piece of coat hanger wire to it to keep it straight.Since I knew that there was a Chevy Conspiracy about a Fed investigation on Frame Rust and lawsuits, etc. then I knew not to pursue this issue. At first I printed out the Service bulletins with the intention of showing up at the dealer - but I realized I had already ran that route already - it was a dead end.
So then next I tried calling local body shops that would do rust work - and then I got the car washed. The salt from the gravel roads up north - was still on the chassis even though the type of car wash was more expensive to clean the undercarriage. Oops! Sure some of the salt did come off. It was better but not good enough and none of the local body shops had called back.
Each can of Internal Frame Coating comes with a special 24-inch tube that reaches inside the tubular steel bars and frame parts. This tube has a conical nozzle with multiple sprays, which reach outward to completely cover the innards of the metal. Tough phenolic resins in this coating then penetrate and encapsulate the rust on the internal surface, preventing it from spreading. Zinc phosphate seals it to prevent future corrosion. This special coating cures within 24 hours, leaving you a frame that's strong inside and out even in the subframe and cavities. https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html
Tannins are complex phenolic compounds of two main categories: hydrolysable and condensable tannins.
Fertan® is a tannic acid based rust converting product. It also has an zinc nitrate additive. This product has a pH of 1.4-2.0.
Conquest® is a tannic acid based rust converting product. It has a vinyl acrylic polymchloride copolymer additive. Tannic acid acts as a chelating agent while the copolymer creates a protective coating. The product has a pH of 1.3
Jasco Prep and Prime®, is a phosphoric acid based rust converting product. This thin green converter has a pH of 1.
Krud Kutter® is a phosphoric acid based rust converting product. This thin green converter has a pH of 1.
Problem is as soon as you rinse off the acid the steel will flash rust in minutes. When you add the water back into it you get flash rusting.
a rust converting primer like Zero-Rust or POR15 or Rust Bullet
These trucks are also known for having the differential vents to rust up, not allowing the pressure to be released, this will eventually allow the seals to seap [oil] as shown by the pinion area....So then I called up the local one chain shop that specializes in rust work and I asked for JUST the rust treatment and NOT the under coating. Why? Because when I told them the age of the vehicle they said the rust treatment would just be for the surface and the rust from the interior would come through. I said yes that's why I don't want to cover it up with an under coating - so then I can keep treating and converting the rust that comes through from within to the surface.
Well, rust eliminator uses a reaction product, Zinc Phosphate ZH3 (PO4)2 that reacts with free iron forming a bond. Tannic acid is also used and reacts with the Iron Oxide (rust) rendering the oxide inert. We then use various ethers and alcohol to dry the exposed areas, removing all moisture from the steel.
Zinc Phosphate is a white non-toxic anti-rust pigment, is the new generation of excellent anti-corrosion effect the non-pollution avirulence antirust pigment, it can effectively substitute contain toxic substances such as lead, chromium, the traditional antirust pigment, is the ideal antirust pigment new varieties in coating industry.
When applied to iron, tannic acid reacts with the iron ions to form ferric tannate, a somewhat porous blue-black film whose degree of protection can be controlled to some extent by the method of application. It produces a uniform finish that enhances the appearance of an object (for more information on the effects of tannic treatment on iron, consult Selwyn ).
they stopped using phosphoric acid due to ground water contamination. it still burns everything after use. it does not dillute away like other acids. tannic acid is best
It is not necessary to be concerned about acid residues remaining on the iron, since phosphoric acid will react with iron ions to form ferric phosphate, which protects iron.
So far, phosphoric acid is winning hands-down... It has a very nice conversion capability (it MUST have rust to convert or you get NO protection of steel). You MUST apply a coating to get that protection; and I am working on a test to prove permability
Ferric tannate films are not vapour barriers. They will delay or retard corrosion by forming a film over iron, but this effect will not last indefinitely. The life of the film can be extended by:Phosphoric acid Gel removes the rust in contrast to phosphoric acid spray that converts to iron phosphate (black) - video
- storing the object in stable relative humidity (RH), preferably around 50% (consult CCI Notes 9/6 Care and Cleaning of Iron)
- wearing gloves when handling the object
Zinc is a "sacrificial protector" since it oxidizes before the iron. So then the galvanizing process forms a zinc oxide layer that is rust that can be removed yet the fresh zinc layer will protect the iron again.
You can return iron oxide back into the part if the iron stays in place as the hydrogen binds with the oxygen as water.
concrete/masonry prep is 100% phosphoric acid. paint section home depot (can't find it at Lowe's for some reason) $13 a gallonSo they reluctantly agreed to do the rust treatment and so I have left the car there over night - but they were very grim about it since I was not getting the full "package" and they were not sure they wanted to treat a car that had so much rust. But they use a hoist and so get fully under the car to treat the whole undercarriage.
Tannic acid chemically converts the reddish iron oxides into bluish-black ferric tannate, a more stable material.
Honestly most of the time with bedliners and undercoating the rust sneaks in through a small crack and you dont notice as it hides under the surface, the thing about seeing rust is being able to spot it and treat it, it's better to have no undercoating and treat rust spots as soon as they start vs trying to coat and forget
Like bedliner, the rubbery spray dries to form a protective layer, and like bedliner it gives up with a good hit from a rock or similar road debris. Because salty water can creep in behind a layer of rubber unseen, it can also trap salt and moisture inside. It’s best to check this stuff now and again to avoid ugly surprises that reveal the only thing left of that kick panel is the undercoating.
So then I just happened upon a product to treat the INTERIOR of the hollow frame of the chassis. It has a two foot long tube with a conical spray nozzle. So I ordered two spray cans - it is also similar to the rust treatment - a zinc phosphate. One can did One frame rail - vid I found this comment on this product:
I work at a place that uses zinc phosphate to coat frames for busses and can say that it is EXTREMELY effective. It's also probably bad for you so wear a respirator.
I tried a phosphoric acid metal prep from the local building supply that worked fairly well and then covered the metal with rattle-can rust-rated enamel.
In addition, there are many solvents containing plastic-based components and rubber in the paint coating solution to help the paint permanently elastic. This paint helps to seal cracks, joints, small holes, etc. to protect internal details and prevent the risk of metal corrosion. If you ask if you should spray anti-rust under the car, the answer is definitely yes, especially when you are busy, less time to wash the car, take care, maintain the chassis.The Eastwood Internal Frame Spray uses a Phenolic Resin as a chelation binder to the iron - thereby converting the iron. Then the zinc is the outer layer.
The thermosetting is the reaction between the components, making it insoluble, and rock hard.
So then I have a local welder who agreed to look at the car to do a frame repair - and weld a plate over the hole in the frame. The phosphoric acid treatment thus far has rendered that metal solid around the hole. But this way if the hole does spread then the welded plate will stop the frame from buckling.
Q. We are doing zinc phosphating for WCB grade cast iron valve bodies. The external surface is either painted or powder coated. However, the internal phosphated surface rusts if no rust preventive oil is applied within two or three days. Is there any solution?And then I ordered more phosphoric acid but this time also with an anti-rust enamel top layer paint to protect the iron bond.
A. The zinc phosphate pretreatment system is generally not intended to be a corrosion-resistant coating by itself. This conversion coating reacts with the base steel (or iron casting in this case) to precipitate an inorganic zinc phosphate crystalline structure on the iron surface where contacted by the phosphating solution. This zinc phosphate coating is intended as a paint base to improve the coating or powder adhesion and provide some additional corrosion resistance.
I am using this to paint the bottom of my truck for rust prevention. There was a little surface rust which I scrapped off what I could. Then power washed under the truck, let it dry and proceeded to paint everything that didn't move. So far so good. I live in the Northeast and feel this is necessary over Zeibart or other underbody sprays. You'll need eye protection, gloves, and breather or face mask. Well ventilation is necessary so I do it outside above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Let it dry for a day and hit it again if you need. Make sure to check under your truck after winter to spot any areas. I keep my vehicles 5 years +.
A common example is phosphoric acid, which additionally converts some iron oxide into an inert layer of ferric phosphateI'll get the SEM nozzle - it's a MIST design - better than the conical design
OK I ordered the SEM 360 degree mist nozzle.
vid
when it arrived it was formed to the packaging so all I had to do was heat it up with a heat gun or you can do it at approximately 14 inches away from the stove Flame and once it's soft and straighten it it will keep itself straight afterwards which is very helpful to achieve what you wanted to do specially to get it in between all the hidden spacesVid demo
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