Adding a cooking grill rack to the 2.4 gallon waste basket back pack tent wood stove!

So the sodium silicate stove cement has to dry for at least 2 hours - and 24 hours total and then needs to be cured by firing up the wood stove. Hopefully this will enable me to set up a pan or pot and then I can just leave it.

Here's that adjustable elbow - I ordered it via a city in northern Minnesota - so I can now adjust the chimney to go out a side wall of the tent. This is 26 gauge - so a bit thicker than the rest of the chimney furnace duct pipe.

So I put the damper into a new section of chimney duct pipe. This section is not "oval" - so the damper now moves easier without popping out of the metal holding sections - there is a spring that holds it in place - supposedly.

The open damper still wobbles - I tried making the holes to be a "tight" fit - I guess I should have really just forced in the rod. Anyway it's a lot better than the last damper duct installation. This time I actually measured out the length and circumference. I normally don't like to measure and try not to measure - but I watched more youtube vids on installing the damper - and it's really necessary to make sure the damper is lined up horizontally and vertically - level and plumb. Hey at least the damper is round!!

The door will probably be also replaced - it is too difficult to open and close. So I'll have to get a "strap" hinge - I saw a video of a same kind of cylinder stove. So then I'll have to make a new door latch also. And cut out the door as well. The problem is the cylinder stove is not symmetry - so the door will have to extend beyond a bit and latch tight. The current door is a bit "adjustable" - meaning I can push it tight on top or have some primary air going in through the top.

So I'm gonna keep thinking about the door deal. The current door still works but it takes a lot of "fuerza" - force.

yes I was up in my Hermit Hut in northern MN - and it was 15 below zero outside - and I didn't realize that if I had closed down the front air intake then I could have doubled my heat output. oops! The Two Dog stove - I was watching more vids on their titanium stoves - and he explains how their design on the front intake leaves an opening even when fully closed - for secondary air. From studying the mass heater rocket stoves using a secondary air channel - it is supposed to be below the baffle or before it goes into the secondary chamber as heat exchange. So this ammo stove - has their secondary air tube below the baffle https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vd7RFwyQxrI for example.

Yeah I've been obsessed over DIY tent stoves - unlike just the cook stoves - with the tent stove there is the need to contain and exit the exhaust away from the fire. So I'll test out my stove again today to see how the damper works with the baffle. I should try pushing my baffle up so it's closer to the exhaust exit - and so I got more wood loading space. I know that Dave's Bullets and Real Survival - he made a double paint can stove - to be able to load more wood. I guess that is closer to the stove size I have - which is probably 2 gallons because of the insert I put in for the secondary air channel.

 If I redo the door then I would have to get a carbide drill bit - as the other metal lids I have are thicker than the popcorn bucket tin lid. Plus I don't even have a hack saw to cut a groove for a door handle latch. So it's probably a $20 investment to redo the door - as I need to buy a strap hinge also. So I'll try to use the door I have for now - the legs cost me $12 and the adjustable elbow was $12 and the damper and flu pipe - $14 - and the stove cement - $3. So it starts adding up fast. $41 plus gas money - still cheaper than buying a stove.