I bought Hydrated Lime for construction mortar - the lime can withstand heat (unlike concrete). So I will use the lime for the firebox - to mix with clay and sand. You only want 10% lime maximum with the clay.
Now I need to study the design more and see about the secondary air channel - and also look for an iron pot lid for the door - or use a casserole glass lid (but people warn they will break too easily - dry out from the heat)...
So he says horse crap works for the fire box
So I need to crush fire brick? I don't have fire brick I don't think. I might have some. I have horse manure. I'm gonna use hydrated lime instead of wood ash....
More than one person suggested adding grog [crushed brick or clay] to the clay body tohttp://www.potters.org/subject03841.htm
make it dry out faster without any elaborate equipment.
high-fired grog is best. I've triedSo turns out the secondary air pipe requires a grinder and welder and specific metal.
grinding red building bricks, which are fired to 6-700 degrees C. here.
They're easy to grind, ....The higher fired grog the better, for sure, because
then shrinkage goes to zero.
Oh, by the way, a batch box following my design is very much helped by a secondary air provision, otherwise it wouldn't be there. Those secondary air provisions are very specific, just a pipe leading to the port or worse, into the riser, could be diametrically in effect.
No comments:
Post a Comment