I've never used OSB but I took a strong whiff and I could detect no off gassing. My nose is pretty sensitive to fumes - so I think I should be fine.
Also this is pretty thick OSB - I get about 2/3rds of an inch but I don't have a very precise measuring tool.
https://www.greenhomeguide.com/askapro/question/does-priming-and-painting-osb-help-prevent-offgassing
So the industry claim is that all the toxic fumes are sucked up and burned off - BEFORE the OSB leaves the factory! Pretty amazing.
http://www.greenbuildingtalk.com/Forums/tabid/53/aff/22/aft/56898/afv/topic/Default.aspx
This person got two layers of OSB installed and the fumes were overwhelming!
But apparently if the OSB has been sitting in the open for a couple years then it clears off the fumes. Since I bought this OSB used - maybe it has done that already.
Virtually all OSB made for the US uses Phenol Formaldehyde based adhesives. These off-gas very little formaldehyde. You typically cannot notice any lingering odors after a few days. However, people who are sensitive to these particular chemicals may still have problems.http://www.breathingwalls.com/drupal/drupal-5.14/
A lot of particleboard uses Urea Formaldehyde based adhesives. This type of adhesive can off-gas for a very long time. This is why cheaply made cabinets can make an entire house stink.
What about the insulation, was it paper backed? Fiberglass insulation does not off-gas anything, but the adhesive used to apply the paper to the fiberglass can off-gas VOCs.
So a 4 x 8 Plywood of similar thickness (32 square feet) would be about: $45 dollars.
So I got 50% more square area for 50% less of the cost. Not bad.
To get a sheet that’s 1/2″ or 3/4″ thick, they start with a layer of chips (called strands) that’s about 6″ thick.https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/article/is-oriented-strand-board-as-impermeable-as-they-say
So, plywood dries better than OSB, but how well do we really know OSB?hmmm
That means you should assume it needs some help drying out, so always follow the two main rules of moisture management:OK.... lots of debate in the comments.
Flash the windows properly. Use overhangs. Install your cladding over a gap with a vented rain screen.
- Don’t let susceptible materials get wet.
- Allow for materials and assemblies to be able to dry out after they do get wet.
We say instead, design a wall to be thermally insulating, meaning keep warm indoor air from leaking to the outside, but allow any moisture vapor or rainwater that seeps into the wall to move out. The wall can then dry out within the 48 hours needed for mold to grow.
Our motto is, make walls "waterproof but vapor permeable." We accomplish this with our envelope materials and the natural, "breathable" finishes we use.
Clay finishes on the inside absorb many times their molecular weight in moisture without any damage, keeping the indoor air relative humidity within comfortable and healthy levels. Natural stuccos, based upon magnesium oxide or lime, act as an air barrier but allow moisture in the form of water vapor to diffuse out. These stuccos are made without acrylic, ensuring that they will always be able to breathe. Our top coat on the outside is a mineral silicate paint that chemically bonds to the stucco layer underneath.And so OSB?
The difference between OSB and plywood is largely due to the tree species used in production and the size of the wood pieces composing the panel. Generally, the smaller the wood chips, the greater the susceptibility to mold. With moisture intrusion, fiberboard and OSB are also susceptible to swelling at the edges, which can be an aesthetic problem.https://www.ecowalls.ca/how-natural-clay-plasters-can-solve-your-mould-and-humidity-issues/
so looks like the clay will solve any OSB problems! Sweet.
Also if I do biochar insulation with the clay - that will be even better!!
I think this is what I got! It retails for $6 and I got it for $2 per panel. Actually mine is just over 1 foot wide and just under 4 foot long.3/4 x 2 x 4 OSB Handi-Panel
(Actual Size .688" x 23-7/8" x 47-7/8")
I have found that drilling a 1/8" hole through the OSB helps a lot. It makes it easy to get the screw started and it verifies I'm lined up on the stud or joist. My OSB is pretty inaccurate when it comes to the reference lines painted on.https://sawmillcreek.org/archive/index.php/t-97731.html
You will find that the OSB will back out the nails with all the banging that a hammer does. Over the years with the weather changes the the OSB will also loosen up with nails.And OSB with straw bales? https://www.fireengineering.com/articles/print/volume-162/issue-4/features/the-unique-challenges-of-fires-in-straw-built-construction.html#gref
It was later determined that the top of the walls had no drywall on the top plate and that there was a space between the straw and the inside and outside wall. This flaw in construction contributed to the total loss of the building. Because of the high winds and the exposed OSB roof decking, the 5,000-square-foot building’s attic was almost totally involved. This caused the top of the unprotected straw bales to ignite from embers and burning materials that fell into the void between the bales and the interior and exterior walls.
The problem is that straw, like the blown treated paper insulation, is combustible. Both will burn when temperatures reach 1,200°F. To combat this, the straw stacks were designed to be treated with fire retardant and covered airtight with an exterior covering. In this case, a modification was made for aesthetic reasons.
Furring strips were added to allow wallboard to be placed on the interior, for a smoother look. This created an air space that eventually created a chimney effect. There are no codes to prevent this from happening.oops!!
The film containing 40 wt% clay hardly burned while exposed to a gas-torch flame ...
Before the members of CABO changed the organization's name to ICC and published the IRC, the 1995 CABO 1 & 2 Family Dwelling Code (section 602.7 "Firestopping required") contained the same requirements as the 2000 IRC (section R602.8 "Fireblocking required") except that the term "fireblocking" was substituted for "firestopping" throughout the section.so you need at least 1 inch of clay "plaster" on the straw as fire blocking.
Don’t worry about the wetness of the cob causing rot in your bales. Natural
builders in all sorts of wet climates have had no problems with this after
more than a decade of experimentation. The reason, I believe, is that the
water in even very wet cob is held by the cob and is not “free” to support
rot organisms in the straw the cob comes in contact with. The cob begins
drying immediately after application.
and cob on the OSB?
We now use what we call
"schmeer" which is just clay rich soil mixed with water and coarse sand to
make a sticky, gritty paste the consistency of yogurt. We take this and
smear it onto the sheetrock in a circular motion with pressure to form a
thin layer, just enough to cover the sheetrock, and let it dry. Just
before applying an earthen plaster, we re-wet the schmeer so that it is
nice and damp, but not so much that it starts to wash back off the
sheetrock. The earthen plasters we like are just our somewhat silty
subsoil (soaked and screened through 1/8th inch screen), water, screened
horse manure (through 1/4 inch screen), and screened sand, maybe 2:4:1 or
whatever gets us to a consistency like fluffy tuna salad when mixed wet.
When drying fresh mushrooms yourself, you end up to a 10 to 1 ratioSo I need 2 1/2 pounds fresh to complete my first order. We are getting pockets of frost in northern Minnesota tonight - after an inch of rain this past week. So that might "shock" the logs into fruiting! I need to set up the logs if they are pinning - so they can fruit properly.
So that is $20 a pound as I received $50 as a non-guaranteed investment for a quarter pound dried shiitake.
Heats to 130 degrees F. - holy Moly - the Knox Cooler-heater I just got will DRY the Shiitake if I get any fruiting! Wow. Because - otherwise I can use the passive solar oven to sun dry - but I'll have to use the plastic bag that comes with it - to get enough heat with this low sun.
A delight to the palate, the home-grown, edible shiitake mushrooms can turn waste-wood into $20-per-pound produce. ... It's necessary, therefore, to cut logs for shiitake cultivation from freshly felled trees or just-trimmed limbs. .... (Shiitake mushrooms are easily distinguishable from most wild mushrooms, but if you have any ...
Jan 22, 2016 - With a retail price of $12 to $20 per pound, the demand for shiitakes is considerable throughout the Northeast.
I did my master's thesis (called "Epicenters of Justice") at University of Minnesota in 2000 on "radical ecology" and "sound-current nondualism" via qigong.
So then to finish the degree my final class was "self-directed" research as credit - doing intensive qigong training from http://springforestqigong.com
I had realized in 1996 that we were doomed due to abrupt global warming - I had worked for Greenpeace full time that summer. This was after since the 1980s when I had connected Pythagorean philosophy to nonwestern shamanism and environmental activism via music theory. I kept this all to myself through my undergraduate degree - until I wrote my own manifesto, "The Fundamental Force," in 1996 after experiencing qigong master Effie P. Chow in 1995 - she blew the fuse in the room behind her when she demonstrated qi at St. Mary's University in Minneapolis.
So the best way to prepare for the global warming crisis - the ecological crisis - is to learn how to transcend death. In 2000 I had what qigong master chunyi Lin called an "enlightenment experience" and I saw ghosts and I did strong healing. Then I spent 10 years reading one scholarly book a day to translate my experiences back into western science as much as possible. I also did free psychic healing in the inner city during that time.
So I'm quite aware of models, etc. but feel free to share.
I figure we have about five years left till full collapse of civilization. http://arctic-news.blogspot.com has the details on this time line.
yeah I hand dug a couple wells down to 20 plus feet. One of them I hit a rock at about 21 feet - so I couldn't go much further into the water table. haha. But I get now a minimum of 2 gallons a day which I can survive on. So then I just switched to the drainage "creek" that still had some swamp stank water in it. haha. I am just using that for the cob walls that I make with horse manure. Oh I should see if that farm to the south has put out their big pile of horse manure yet! Yep basically I have till early October to work with the clay. I'll restack the logs into their "cabin" style just in case they start pinning or already are pinning. Then if they don't pin naturally - I'll try a "force" soaking for 24 hours when it gets down to frost temp - in a couple weeks. Should be exciting! thanks for asking.
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