Sunday, April 28, 2024

Is home-made Waxoyl worth it? a 2.5 litre pressure can of Waxoyl, a high-pressure sprayer, and extension probe

 Is home-made Waxoyl worth it?

Rust Inhibit Kit Waxoyl 

 https://www.amazon.com/Hammerite-6141711-Waxoyl-Pressure-Sprayer/dp/B019CXRV16

 I filled the pump container with the warmed waxoyl, pumped to set the pressure and off I went, well for 30 seconds I did. The waxoyl had now solidified in the rubber extension tube and wouldn’t budge. So that was the end of that. The product had also started to solidify in the pump too so would not come out. I managed to heat the pump a bit to get some of it out but most was wasted. I guess I am going to have to use a brush to apply this as I am sending this useless pump for a refund.. avoid like the plague folks.

 Found this product more user friendly than the old pressurized tin can version of several years ago.

 a link to Canadian Military study of various rust prevention methods and basically oil spray type rust proofing came out on top once they took into account how the equipment is used, the ability of the rust proofing to creep and how long can it stay on the covered surfaces.

 There is a NATO formula for use in military equipment, vehicles, ships, etc:

 90% white petrolatum and 10% beeswax. Heat to 225-250 F and spray hot into cavities and places where rust protection is needed. I suspect this is where Mike Sander in Germany got the idea for his formula. The large proportion of grease, with some wax for stabilization, prevents the substance from drying out. I had some of the old hot wax stuff eventually dry completely out and fall off a Jaguar. I am going to try this and see how it works.

 White petrolatum USP is a purified mixture of semi-solid hydrocarbons from petrolatum and is decolorized. It may contain a stabilizer. Synonyms: white soft paraffin, white petroleum jelly, Vaseline, White Ointment USP.

 seems this has a cup or so of 30 weight motor oil in it as well.

 Waxoil on the car's underside, i reckon that its got a high content of hydrocarbons - from the "light" ones (hexane, heptane, etc - these will evaporate at nomal temperatures), plus a good selection of the heavyier ones - to form a soft waxy film (rather like pertoleum jelly [White soft paraffin]). Ther's probably lots more in there - as Willie notes the tin doesn't have ingredients listed. BUT it doesn't have "danger carcinogen" so there's probably no benzene or toluene...

I think that the beeswax/candle mixture won't have the range of waxes to stay soft and sticky over the normal motoring temperatures - try for a commercial product first.

Home-Made

 Take a pound or so of paraffin wax and grind
it up with a cheese grater. Soak it in a half gallon of mineral spirits until all of the wax is dissolved. This might require allowing it to sit in a closed container for a couple of weeks (I just used a 5 gal. bucket with lid). Stirring will cause most of the wax to dissolve, but soaking should take care of the rest. Generally try to dissolve as much wax as the mineral spirits will hold.

After that, dump in a couple of pints of mineral oil ( less of a smell [than car oil])

 If the mixture is thick, thin it further with more mineral spirits until it is of a sprayable consistency.

Buy a cheap pump pesticide sprayer to apply it. 

I have however tried straight paraffin dissolved in spirits. The brew with the addition of oil creeps out more so than a mix without oil.

 Harvey™ Bol-Wax® No. 1 Standard Wax Ring is actually Petrolatum and NOT Paraffin wax!!

Petrolatum is solidified petroleum jelly - use mineral oil. No smell.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/easy-diy-rusproofing.140790/ 

 I bought a gallon of cosmoline, cut it with naphtha and sprayed the underside of my vehicles.

 OK an overview of the Types of Underbody Rust Prevention Treatments

1) Paraffin Waxes I used Cosmoline as RP342 but there are claims this Paraffin Wax spray will chip off and then trap water. The countervailing claim is that the wax repels water and softens in the summer - so does not chip off (unless in very cold winter). I haven't noticed water being trapped nor it chipping off but I have not really scrutinized the effects. Also I did two treatments - and the last one was a couple years ago. These treatments do need to be repeated and I did not get all the parts of the car - the rocker panels and the doors - I did not get very well at all. I focused on the frame rails, and underbody. 

In the hot summer months an underbody car power wash will remove the wax coating!

So that paraffin wax is the first kind of underbody treatment. It is also infamously used as Waxoyl - a British brand as per above - that can also be home-made (something I have not tried but am considering it). The paraffin wax dries fast and has a candlewax or crayon smell that is pleasant. The black looks awesome. But it does not "creep" - and when spreading INSDE the frame rails - the chassis (box) frame - you want creep.... NHOU also sells B.o.s.s. Wax - amber color (paraffin wax). Rustcheck (Ontario Canada) is another one. Cor-Ban 22 is another one.  No-Drip by Dominion is also paraffin wax. Undercoating In A Can, Black Wax Coating  and Dynax-S50 and Dinitrol (german-UK) Kleen-Flo Honey-Goo (canada) is another paraffin wax aerosol also. ValuGard 160 is a paraffin wax treatment that is professionally applied at service centers.

The wax coating makes floor jacks slip off the frame too....The wax coating was peeling in chunks.

2) Lanolin or Woolwax products This infamously includes Fluid Film the  most widely available undercoating product sold. Fluid Film is something I have not used but it is now available in black - so I would like to try this out. It is best known for "creep" on metal but it also washes off fairly easily. So it's best to be used inside - which is what I need - inside the chassis (box) frame rails... It does smell like sheep backside apparently but the smell goes away hopefully. PB Surface Shield is also lanolin based and does not smell as bad - probably not as much lanolin - but it's not in black color.... Woolwax does not creep as well - so it's a thicker lanolin. Those are the three main lanolin undercoating products but there are more out there. The big problem is these make the underbody a sticky gooey mess and a mechanic will complain or may even refuse service. One professional painter insisted that the undercoating as lanolin would destroy their painting process. The lanolin also will soften the wax and work through the wax coatings. 

 The fluid film company says not for use on GM frames. But people don’t know that.

Fluid Film SDS : Refined petroleum oil, hydrotreated heavy paraffinic 50-90%

So Fluid Film actually might be mainly paraffin wax also!  

In Norway we mostly use greese from a sheep. We have spesial work shops that spray this in all craks and corners of your car. It is werry durable, and in our moist contry it last for abouth 5 yares before you need another round at the shop. It leaves a litle smell in the car for a short time after treatment, but it goes away pritty fast. (1-2 weaks)
Norway, Europe, salt is madness here. Used fluid film for many years but after multiple applications it seems to get a bit dry and starts flaking with rust in some spots, especially near wheels, answer seems to be blending 7:3 FF: ATF, kinda has mist of the stickyness of fluid film but penetrates better like ATF, 2003 Hilux going strong. Couldn't imagine not treating a vehicle now. Sprayer with compressor and long nossle really helps and costs like one treatment by a shop.

3) Mineral Oil products  New Hampshire Oil UnderCoating or NHOU is a food-grade mineral oil product. Another mineral oil product that is used in Canada is Krown - there is a franchise. A third mineral oil that is used for undercoating is Penetrol. Lastly you can just buy mineral oil as a gallon and use a garden hand pump sprayer - this is the cheapest and easiest undercoating method. Unfortunately Krown scored low on tests - why? Mineral Oil creeps really well and that's crucial but it also washes off easily - and also drips a lot. So same problem as above - a gooey sticky mess. It sounds similar to Noxudol out of Sweden. (also another mineral oil-paraffin wax mix with calcium sulfonate mixed in).  CRC Corrosion Inhibitor is similarly mainly mineral oil with just a small amount of paraffin and petroleum (2% of those). Gooey, tacky brown mess that lasts a few months, a strong odor that lasts a week. 

 The spray is literally the color of rust, which is ironic considering that's the color I'm trying to cover. Also, how will I know if the product works preventing rusting if the product itself looks similar?

 Corrosion Free is made from food grade mineral oils. Rust-Oleum® Stops Rust® Clear Rust Inhibitor is also mainly mineral oil with some paraffin wax!!  Liquid Wrench Chain Lube is also mainly mineral oil.

 This done with transmission fluid or mineral oil will not stop rust. it may slow it down for a while but being oil is lighter than water it will float on top

4) Petroleum Jelly-Paraffin Wax mixesMike Sander's Grease got the highest rating for undercoating. Another very high score in undercoating is Texaco or Chevron Rust Proof Compound L.  As I quoted above their secret is 90% petroleum jelly! 10% paraffin wax

 There is a NATO formula for use in military equipment, vehicles, ships, etc:

 90% white petrolatum and 10% beeswax. Heat to 225-250 F and spray hot into cavities and places where rust protection is needed. I suspect this is where Mike Sander in Germany got the idea for his formula.

 A high performance de-watering wire rope fluid designed for complete lubrication and corrosion protection

So with this formula you get both CREEP and you get a harder wax that does not wash off easily.  Basically mineral oil and petroleum jelly and paraffin wax are all very closely related and they exist on a continuum of refined petroleum products. They don't smell as bad as lanolin or wool oil yet they are still synthetically derived. The "wax" put on GM frames - that infamously wears off fast - paraffin wax-petroleum jelly. 

 The GM engineer testified that the wax undercoating is only designed to last one year, and that it provides cosmetic protection only. After a year, if you live in a coastal or snow belt area (what they describe as one of the 95th percentile areas), they expect the undercoating to flake off and the undercarriage to begin corroding. Such corrosion is just cosmetic they say, and not sufficient to degrade the functionality of the vehicle, though they didn't say for how long.

This is called Nox-Rust out of Illinois (60-70% petrolatum, 10-15% mineral oil).  The wax coating has "evaporated" - the wax is peeling or falling off... petroleum jelly is the main component of STA-BIL® Rust Stopper so you have this yellow goo that doesn't drive but washes off easily...

so when my car heats up it turns to a liquid and starts to burn off and now is making me scared to drive my car for fear of fire....The spray does have a slight orange tint to it,... the solvents do evaporate forming a water resistant coating. I do rinse off the road salt throughout the winter, no sign of any salt residue, and the coating remains.... Really like the way you can flip the "precision applicator" up and down, much easier than trying to wedge a little straw into a spray valve.

 Corrosion x HD is another one. 

Unlike wax coatings, it will not dry out, stiffen or crack under stress...Semi-viscous liquid
Odor: Petroleum
Color: Light brown

 Once it’s sprayed it bubbles a little and tends to be a little more viscous. After a day or two, it becomes a translucent yellowish hazed oily residue.

5) The fifth product for undercoating is to just use oil or ATF or some asphalt mixed in - or some Rubberized spray - these do leave toxic messes and the hard rubber or asphalt will trap water as it "peels" off. Of course paint is a variation on this also - acrylic or epoxy paints - with some claiming to be special Chassis paints. I have tried using Chassis Saver paint. In some places it bonded well - in other places it peeled off.

Lloyds Kryptonite Metal Treatment High Temp Satin Black is a 3% phosphoric acid - 1% Zinc - primer used by GM to re-prep frames that had not been prepped properly before waxing.

https://madesafe.org/blogs/viewpoint/chemical-profile-mineral-oil-petroleum-jelly

 Half quart of any oil, trans fluid, tube of grease and a wax gasket or 2. Add what u like. It only helps. Dont like smell of oils and trans fluid use mineral oil.

MY OWN RECIPE

Harvey Wax Bowl Ring = 3 of them ($2 dollars) is petrolatum wax
heat in the rice cooker....to dissolve and mix into the mineral oil.
add the
Victor™ Powdered Graphite - 6.5 g  1 in stock $1.30
Spray in garden sprayer.

vid: HEAT is enough - no mineral spirits needed!! 

LPS3 bulk paraffin wax (gallon) is sprayable in a hand pump garden sprayer!!

https://www.gwlinc.com/downloads/SDS_MSDS_2014/lps/LPS_3-1_GAL.pdf 

It is 50% mineral spirits

10% paraffin wax...

Very easy to apply with a simple hand sprayer.

 I have a drop landed on back off my neck and it burns, be safe.

I used a pump sprayer to apply rust inhibitor.

  Easy spray application gives it an advantage over "cosmoline," but it does come in more economical gallon jugs which also avoids the hazmat rip-off fee.

filled cheap pump spray bottles from a 1 gallon can.

So LPS3 does have mineral oil in it also.

If you read the MSDS on the LPS3 gallon bulk it is 50% mineral spirits and 10% paraffin and the rest is probably mineral oil. So it says tacky and is not as hard as cosmoline. It can be sprayed from a pump sprayer bottle due to the mineral spirits. So this can easily be made as DIY undercoating for way cheaper - and then just applied more frequently. Only the mineral spirits is flammable - so should be done outside and let it evaporate for a couple nights I would think - minimum.

CRC corrosion inhibitor is a mix of paraffin and petrolatum wax....

CRC comes in first!!

  best stuff I’ve found that lasts the longest and doesn’t trap salts and moister [sic] is cosmoline rp-342,

Equate Beauty Petroleum Jelly Skin Protectant, 13 Oz. almost a pound
And then 10% paraffin wax...
So you get a mix of mineral oil, petrolatum wax and paraffin wax.... mix in turpentine to spray.
In germany we use selfmade protection made out of 90% petroleum jelly and 10% beewax. It must be heat to 250°F (about 120°C). It can be sprayed on or painted on

 Rust Check sells for $20 a can (It's 20-25% paraffin wax and 35-45% mineral oil) - so that's $100 right there for 5 cans at 12 ounces per can=10 ounces of paraffin wax total. It's not sold in the U.S. - looks like an Ontario distributed product. I'll try make my own stuff. I used RP-342 before - Cosmoline out of Chicago. It's paraffin wax. Also $20 a spray can. 

DIY recipe: 12 paraffin candles (12 ounce total so just under 1 pound) for $5.50 melt in crock pot. melt in 2 tubs of 13 ounces vaseline for potential creep (mineral oil-petrolatum wax mix). $10. 1 tube of graphite lube for black color ($1.50). Two quarts of pure turpentine. $20. Mix it all in bucket. So $37 dollars and use a garden hand pump sprayer. LPS3 sells a gallon of paraffin wax that is 50% mineral spirits (for $100) and can be sprayed in a garden hand pump sprayer. So again this would be the same as LPS3 but only $37 instead of $100.

The NATO recipe would be Toilet Bowl Rings (petrolatum 1= ‎5.9 ounces) as 90% and paraffin candles as 10% 

OK Here is what I bought for the DIY Recipe:

1/2 Tablespoon of Graphite for black coloring.

The youtube vid on coloring Lanolin is 1/2 cup of graphite for 1 gallon? 

So 8 table spoons.  So I don't have enough graphite!

I wonder if there's another way to do black coloring. I have black gloss paint!!

So that's another 1/4th of a tablespoon of Black Carbon coloring. hahahahha.

carbon black is a form of soot. However soot is typically randomly produced as in the soot found in a chimney from burning wood. This soot has many sizes of carbon particles

 $63 for 1 gallon of Black Fluid Film....

black pigment powder is $6 for 1 tablespoon! dang.

OK I can get 1.3 tablespoons for $3 of black liquid pigment.

So.. .. $18 about for 6= 7 to 8 tablespoons.

Only 2 in stock!!!

I'm just gonna use GROUND BLACK PEPPER - way cheaper. 

$2 for 4 tablespoons! So that's equivalent to bulk black graphite.

OK so then I got 9 toilet wax rings of Petrolatum Wax.... so that's 3 pounds.

Then I got 1 pound of paraffin wax as candles

So this won't be as soft as the 9 to 1 ratio of petrolatum to paraffin wax.

place 4 pounds of food-grade paraffin wax into either the top of a double boiler or a crockpot on low heat. Once the wax melts, stir in about 1 cup of mineral oil.

 so that's my 4 pounds of wax!! (petrolatum has mineral oil in it already)....

Then I got 2 quarts of PURE Turpentine....

NOW, if you do want to spay this mix, USE turpentine

 exactly. Half a gallon of Turpentine instead of mineral spirits.

Petrolatum is a complex semi-solid combination of Paraffin Wax, Microcrystalline Wax and White Mineral Oil.

 I just got 2 quarts (4 pounds) of pure gum turpentine and 3 pounds of petrolatum wax (mineral oil and wax) and 1 pound of paraffin wax. I'm going to color it black with pepper powder. Using a hand pump sprayer. I have a crock pot to melt the wax. then mix with turpentine and pepper. People normally buy graphite for black color or black carbon is in paint. If you buy wax as aerosol spray or even a gallon of it - it's $100 but only 1 pound of wax!! This is 4 times the wax for $60 - including a bucket to mix it in and the pump sprayer. So I can reuse those - so should cost less next time.

yeah I figured out $100 of the 6 aerosol Cosmoline spray cans only has 1 pound of wax! So last night I bought 3 pounds of petrolatum wax (toilet rings) and 1 pound of paraffin wax (votive candles). Then pure gum turpentine - two quarts (4 pounds). I'm gonna try black pepper powder for pigment. Using a garden pump sprayer. So 4 times as much wax for about half the price!! I figure I can do two coats. 

 melted three or four wax toilet bowl rings, mixed in a quart of used motor oil, got it hot enough to be runny (metal bucket, propane torch), and then squirted it in like you showed in the rockers, cab corners, door bottoms, etc. then made another batch and spread in on the underside using an old paint brush. Today the truck has zero rust!

 I'm trying a DIY of cosmoline - since it's pricey. I used rp 342 before on a Chevy TB. I agree about not wanting a dirty greasy underbody - I like the black wax for sure. I looked up the mSDS and from what I can tell $100 (six spray cans of rp342) is only 1 lb of wax over all. So I got 9 toilet wax rings (Petrolatum wax which is mineral oil/paraffin mix) as 3 lbs. Then 1 lb of paraffin wax (candles). Then 2 quarts (4 lbs) of pure gum turpentine. For black pigment I'll try black pepper powder. Include the mixing - and hand pump sprayer - and it's $60 but four times more wax. hahahaha.

I have no idea if it will work but I do phosphoric acid treatment also - and I also got a repair kit welded on the side by the exhaust (where the heat had rusted out a inner wall hole). Anyway I also did Epoxy appliance spraypaint after the phosphoric acid - that stuff holds up well!! I tried Chassis saver also - seems to work ok.
I use a boroscope to check the inside - I did phosphoric acid so the inside turned white from the phosphorus - after the rust got converted. Then I tried painting zinc primer - spraying in there - and some enamel. I will spray in the DIY wax treatment. If it doesn't creep or cover well enough - I'll just get black fluid film for the inside of the frame rails - just to make sure I get enough coverage. Then wax on the outside.
If I see rust come back - I don't know. I might have to get another repair kit welded on but the mechanic would have to remove the gas tank first - drag. I think I caught the rust early enough - and keep treating it to slow down the spreading.

 Rosin or colophony is a complex substance produced from pine resin after the evaporation of turpentine, which is its volatile fraction (Hawley and Palmer, 1912).

 Rosin is the active ingredient of Stoneguard Protective Undercoating Black paint!! wow

 I kept doing more research. Then I took the plunge. I survived!! Two quarts pure gum turpentine. 9 toilet wax rings (petrolatum). 1 lb of paraffin wax candles. 9 ounces of black pepper powder for pigment (yeah I really want black not amber rust color wax)...

Heat up wax - melt in crock pot...
pour turpentine in bucket. Pour in hot wax. Mix with paddle on drill...
mix in black pepper powder....
Get the 1 gallon Chapin sprayer. Sprayer does NOT work - potion is too thick.
Switch back to 2 gallon sprayer that worked before - (but handle broke - switch in the NEW Chapin handle) - Still does not work...
Try Painting on the potion - gets messy real fast....especially since I don't have a paint brush!!!
Then try the hand Transfer Pump for INSIDE the Chassis frame rails - this works for one section of frame rail!! Then it clogs up...
go back to painting with a brush -
Left Garage door open to air off...
Now I'll buy the Black Fluid Film for the inside of the frame rails - like a good consumer...
BONUS - when the Turpentine evaporates it leaves a Rosin that is actually the main ingredient of an undercoating paint called...
Rosin or colophony is a complex substance produced from pine resin after the evaporation of turpentine, which is its volatile fraction (Hawley and Palmer, 1912).

 Rosin is the active ingredient of Stoneguard Protective Undercoating Black paint!! wow

So I think I spread maybe half of the wax or a little more? some got cold and pasty - some obviously spilled... So that's 2 lbs of wax - more than the $100 of Black paraffin wax rp-342 spray - and this petralotum wax will stay soft...

OK so I just sprayed two cans of Black Fluid Film - smelled just like RP-342 - it has a crayon paraffin wax smell! I could not smell any "moldy sock" smell? Maybe I'll have to try again. Still don't smell any bad sheep smell. I think Fluid Film really is just paraffin wax and mineral oil - probably 20% paraffin wax. I could definitely smell the paraffin wax like RP-342.