I unbolted the throttle body before I had to "press down" this one clip. So then the clip was very hard to press down and I did not have the throttle body to push against. So I used a screwdriver and pushed hard - and got the lever - plastic lever pushed down - and the cap removed. Oh you're supposed to push the fuel cap in as you push that lever down - or something. Anyway instead I slashed into my finger with the screwdriver. haha. Blood stains on the garage concrete....
It's literally 3 seconds of the video - but for me it put a nice gash in my finger since I don't have gloves for this job. haha. It took me awhile to find a 10 mm socket - luckily I had one in the Thrift Store used tool parts I got - sockets... just miscellaneous sockets.
So I just used that 10 mm with an extension - HAD to have the extension to "crack" off the throttle body bolts...
And the small screw driver to pry off some of the plastic clip parts...
So I was curious - this Throttle Body had been cleaned by the previous shop - that did all the work on this car - and as the vid says,
You got this carbon throttle body cleaner... they all do the same thing...See all that crap in there...So what a lot of shops do; it sits on your motor like this and they just take a rag... oh yeah that's really doing a lot of shit. But to really clean it you gotta take it off....So I took it off - but it looks pretty clean already!! So the shop must have taken it off when they cleaned it. Also we just use synthetic oil so that probably kept it clean...
But the reason the shop had cleaned the throttle body is because they got a "check engine" computer code for the throttle body....
Actually I just took a closer look at the throttle body - now that my finger stopped bleeding (and I cleaned up the blood stain on the carpet - hopefully I didn't track blood around the house)....
And YES there is VARNISH stains on the walls of the throttle body.... so I should use the tooth brush to clean that...
Yeah I'm glad I took it out:
There you go...all that crap out of there, both sides and now we're going to put her back in....So I NEVER do mechanics - but I really like quiet and silence and also not being bothered. So I had a rich dinner and I needed to work off the energy. So I just dove in.
20 minutes later |
Tomorrow I will actually CLEAN the Throttle Body - I bought the cleaner last time I was at the auto parts store - it was on sale for $4 and I had been wanting to do this project. So I couldn't pass up that SALE price...
How to Clean a Throttle Body - the RIGHT way - vid
Do not use straight carb cleaner as it can destroy certain plastics. You can spray the intake opening down too.3rd vid - cleaning the throttle body
4th vid says to DISCONNECT battery first
oops - yeah I was a bit paranoid around the ignition coils - as the socket wrench was touching that area a bit.
5th vid on Throttle Body cleaning -
So I just reread the maintenance records - the throttle body was cleaned last 100,000 miles ago and the notes say - they got the code for the throttle body and the idle oxygen was off and idle was running too high. And so if the car drives off by itself at idle - to let them know.
Q: My car revs by itself when idle sometimes the car jerks a little what is the problem?
this must be what he meant
Car Idles High And Accelerates On Its Own? The Solution
But the problem arises when RPM is still set to high even after the engine warm-up is done. If you are encountering car idles high and accelerates on its own issue, here is your solution.
check the Idle Air Control Valve/Bypass Air Control or have it checked. There may be debris in there that can be cleaned, and the idle problem gets solved.
I think it's STILL doing that - not sure if cleaning the throttle body now will help fix that or not...
But the code went away....back at 148K miles...
Malfunctioning Throttle: A malfunctioning throttle system can cause both a high or low idle as well as an engine stall. A dirty air intake or cracked air intake tube is often the culprit.Ah so that 5th vid says when the throttle body is dirty then too much air is let in through the
"idle control valve which bypasses air through a port in the top of the throttle body - which you can't really see..."- fascinating!!
he says make sure to take out the reusable gasket ....before cleaning the throttle body...
Wow - he says a GM will run high idle for an hour and GRADUALLY learn - it's a disaster if you don't do a "relearn" on the throttle body....
Also, I heard on other videos to pull fuse #10 PCMB & #28 PCM-1 (In fuse box right beside the battery- maybe this was instead of pulling battery cable) let it sit 15-20 minutes before putting them back in (this lets the computer know to reset the idle.)causes of high idle - vid
make sure not to get the throttle bottle cleaner spray into the plug - vid
6th throttle body vid
So he says - it's spring loaded to fall back to the default position....
I'm gonna go check right now!!
Sure enough - it springs back - but the Default position is at a really steep angle. Very strange!!
Yeah it's about the "same" default position angle as in that vid on the NEW throttle body...
So the throttle body goes into a plastic manifold!! So you use the criss-cross pattern to tighten by hand...
yeah this vid shows the black - I have that also a bit -
So this final vid - 8th!! - he says to take off the two ignition coils
interesting - no one else mentioned needing to do that...
But I did notice it was touching against them....
The ECM uses non-volatile memory to keep track of the IAC position when the engine and ECM are turned off.OK I'm gonna idle the car now - the rpm is at 800 idle. Let's see if it goes down after 10 minutes....
Each car has a unique IAC value that takes into account the condition of the sensors, air and vacuum passages, etc.
Whenever the ECM loses battery power (which clears the stored IAC position) or significant changes to the system (e.g. sensors are replaced) it is a good idea to perform the idle learn procedure.
The procedure in the service manual was superseded by a more recent service bulletin.
It says to turn the car complete off (remove the key), remove power from the ECM for 20 seconds and then start the car.
Let it idle for 10 minutes.
Shut it off for 20 seconds and then start it and let it run for 5 minutes.
Shut it off again and you're done.
https://throtl.com/products/air-throttle-body-spacer-air200-586
Throttle Body Spacer? youtube
The POWERAID Throttle Body Spacer is designed to enhance off-idle torque from 800 rpm to approximately 3,000 rpm. The spacer utilizes it's unique, patented Helix Bore design to spin the incoming air charge as it passes through the throttle body spacer. The spinning air action boosts the velocity of the incoming air and contributes to better atomization of the air/fuel mixture as the air charge enters the combustion chamber. The end result is more part-throttle torque and improved mid-range power.Wow I just WATCHED the idle DROP!!! It's went from 800 to just over 600.
So now I'm just letting the computer "memorize" the new low idle. Awesome!!
You can HEAR the difference - I'm really shocked. I thought I was just goofing around - didn't look like that much carbon build up - millimeters or microns!!
GM Reduced Engine Power Mystery Solved - Throttle Body dissected vid
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